Quote:
Originally Posted by Elmo370z
Does any or 1slow yourself, tell me a little more about the dry sump set up. I was talking to a guy today about the possible locations, They are wanting to move things around in the engine bay and im convinced that pretty much out the question, I don't want to start hacking up the car. They thought about putting the tank where the windshield wiper fluid is located. I still want to go through the truck. Then the question came up with the routing of the lines? is it possible to run the lines through the chassis, Just so they aren't expose to the elements? The next question would the pump be strong enough to feed oil to the motor while road racing, Im pretty sure Daily makes pumps strong enough. ( These are muscle car guys that don't partake in our platforms). If there is anything else missing please feel free to chime in.
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I ran one hose down each side of the car under the side plastic panels on the bottom think where the fuel line is, they the came into the car under the seats where the bottom of the floor dents back down, and then through the pass through by the strut tower/fuel pump cover and ove the hump to the back of the trunk area. The breather can is behind the bumper by the rear crash bar. If you go with at least a -16 line from the tank to the pressure stage you should be fine but a -20 is really the way to go. From the scavenge stages to the tank should be -16. The massive supply line actually acts as a supplemental tank and is always full of oil since it is so low in the middle. The pan pump i used was of my design not a daileys and used a peterson r4 pump with an oversized pressure stage and custom pump bracket from the ati drysump balncer. Vant remember who i got the pulley hub from but i believe it was cw. Lines where flex aramid line exept the pressure lines which were mocal stainless. When setting it up watch the drive ratio on the cog belts and the pumps rated max rpm. Dont want to blow your pump up.