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cv129 · 10-08-2016, 07:21 PM

Assuming no typo, and all the #'s are in degrees (not degree-minute)...

Before front toe was out of whack...left is toe-in (positive), right is toe-out (negative). I imagine Toe-out with the negative camber would accelerate inside edge wear, perhaps what Gomer_110 alluded to earlier.
After Toe, both left and right, are a hair out of range...possibly tech couldn't adjust any further and due to the camber (camber adjustment affects toe).
After Caster, side-to-side difference is actually still within tolerance.
After Camber, the -1.5 is a hair out of OEM range

OEM alignment range courtesy of AK370 Stock alignment specs?

I think you need a experienced tech to inspect all your front bushings. Don't want you to change the upper control arms just to find out there's worn bushing on the lower control arms.

10-08-2016, 07:21 PM	#22 (permalink)
cv129 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Dallas, TX Posts: 3,222 Drives: 09 Nismo, 16 Nismo Rep Power: 163995	Assuming no typo, and all the #'s are in degrees (not degree-minute)... Before front toe was out of whack...left is toe-in (positive), right is toe-out (negative). I imagine Toe-out with the negative camber would accelerate inside edge wear, perhaps what Gomer_110 alluded to earlier. After Toe, both left and right, are a hair out of range...possibly tech couldn't adjust any further and due to the camber (camber adjustment affects toe). After Caster, side-to-side difference is actually still within tolerance. After Camber, the -1.5 is a hair out of OEM range OEM alignment range courtesy of AK370 Stock alignment specs? I think you need a experienced tech to inspect all your front bushings. Don't want you to change the upper control arms just to find out there's worn bushing on the lower control arms. __________________ Setrab \| RE-71 \| SPL \| JRZ \| Nismo \| ARK \| Whiteline \| RacingBrake \| CJM Oil Pan \| Ti shield Last edited by cv129; 10-08-2016 at 07:50 PM.