Quote:
Originally Posted by bigaudiofanat
You simply have to tap the speaker wires behind the head unit and run them into those inputs. Otherwise you have to get a Low level converter which aren't that expensive.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigaudiofanat
There will be no rear speaker wires coming out of the stock head unit. you simply have to tap the front ones. I'd get something a little better then the bazooka tube as well.
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I thought I read somewhere that you said there's pin-outs on the head unit for the rear speakers, but they are just blank. If so, do you have a diagram and/or pics of the locations?
If that's the case and I can tap into rear outputs, that's where I'd like to tap into to get a signal to an amp for the sub(s). That would give me a way of adjusting the sub output on the fly, as well as a "bass control" knob coming from the amp to the center console.
Yes, I'm ditching the Bazooka idea, not because it's not a good sub, but because I always end up over-doing stuff. LOL
My current thoughts are keeping the stock head unit and stock speakers, then running an Audio Control Epicenter 600 amplifier under the passenger seat (I've used an Epicenter unit in every system I've built for myself, and always will), and a quartet of JL 6W3's, hopefully in the little cubby just behind/below the chassis brace.
My only real concern is being able to fit four 6.5" subs in that area, keeping them under the stock flooring/carpeting, completely out of sight, having enough mounting depth and air space.
As of right now I have no idea of the amount of space in that area. What's the actual depth and width of it? And what's that sensor thing mounted to the center of that "wall"?
I'm not concerned about those two bolts sticking up through the floor either. In fact, I'm going to use them to bolster down the enclosure. Make those suckers work to my advantage.
