Quote:
Originally Posted by Darwins Child
Two things.
First, although I've read some of the posts in this thread, I haven't stumbled on the exact details of your vehicle such as year, miles, etc. Of course those details will be necessary for anyone to determine what the vehicle's market value was before the dealership set it on fire and how much it might be worth now with the amount of money that will have to be sunk into it to get it back to mint condition, assuming that that can be done, which, considering that it was not involved in a collision, but only a fire and a dousing with dry chemical from an extinguisher, it should. After all, there's nothing wrong with the engine, etc., correct? The vehicle hasn't been "totaled", has it? If not, do you know what the estimated cost of repair is? Did the dealership hand you an estimated cost of repair with parts and labor included? Do you own the vehicle outright, or are you still making payments? If the latter, how much have you sunk into the vehicle so far and how much more have you got to go? Are you a competent DIYr? If you are, your sweat equity alone may allow you to get the vehicle back to like-new with not that much of your settlement spent. All of this information will be helpful for anyone advising you how to proceed most economically. .
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2010 with 6029 miles on it when I dropped it off. 11k in damages, and most of that comes from the two harnesses that were damaged in the fire. My insurance is covering the costs as of now, and will be going after the dealerships insurance. It's really a no brainer. you don't drive a car at highway speeds to test for brake failure.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darwins Child
Second, I haven't had a chance to check myself, but you should read the shop manual's repair / troubleshooting procedure for a brake line leak or master cylinder reservoir fluid level that keeps dropping or requires constant re-filling. See if there's anything in there that recommends taking the vehicle for a "test" (joy) ride.
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This is a brilliant idea. I need to see if I can find my FSM. I am at work now, and I don't think our network will allow me to D/L the manual here.