Thanks for all the info! It pointed the correct direction to head in order to really nail down how to do the job the right way and extend the convertible top life.
As suggested, a brush does seem to be the best method regarding application on these small tops (vs. a roller on a large canvas boat top) for direct protectent placement and not breathing in the mist--that makes so much more sense than trying to spray it on.
The material used on the Nissan Z top is
Stayfast C, the facing is woven solution-dyed acrylic, which is used in most every quality "canvas" top.
If the material does need to be replaced at some point, perhaps
Sonnenland A5B/DS would be a better choice to cut down on road noise. Stayfast C is what I would class an upper-quality product (better than most anything on the market), and in that class it's on the lower end of what Haartz makes. You can see this when comparing Sonnenland and Stayfast weaves and overall appearance; Stayfast looks great, Sonnenland looks incredible.
The manufacturer
suggests using RAGGTOPP™.
Reportedly, they recommended 303 for 20 years until changing to RAGGTOPP in the last three years or so.
Glen Raven makes similar
acrylic fabric used in outdoor awnings and marine applications such as boat tops, and recommends 303® Fabric Guard™ as the preferred re-treatment product for Sunbrella fabrics.
Both products should therefore work well, the question is which works better. This isn't so much OCD as it is wanting to get the most protection for the effort invested. Regarding waterproofing,
303 Fabric Guard beats RAGGTOPP convincingly in every aspect. If the material is properly cleaned and the products brushed on, both do well, but there is almost no argument on the Internet regarding direct comparisons--303 simply works better and lasts longer. As noted though, 303 requires more preperation, which could be why Haartz now suggests RAGGTOPP.
The more important concern is UV protection, as the sun will destroy the waterproofing and material if there isn't excellent UV protection. While RAGGTOPP claims it's UV protection is far superior to 303
(according to reports by people who've spoken to the company), real-world testing is generally more reliable.
Boat owners are a reliable group, since their "canvas" protects other things from UV, and their boats sit in salt mist in all sorts of climates, but generally "mostly sunny," and boating is expensive and a lot of maintenance as is so they look to make things last.
They like 303. (Boat owners also detail why
ScotchGuard is not recommended.)
It seems people use 303 Aerospace protectant for seals, weatherstripping, dashes and panels, and other rubber/vinyl stuff.
Found light plastic for the first time out, but will probably cut open a few garbage bags instead as the product isn't being sprayed. I'll tape it off with
Scotch 46338 233+ 36 mm on the round areas and
3M 06654 36 mm Automotive Refinish Masking Tape on the straights. My choice in using 303 is gallon sizes are available, it works better, and I don't mind the extra cost or labor of keeping it off the paint as I'd want to do that with RAGGTOPP also. Both products seem to be "the best" with minor differences.
The following quote lays out the
very important prep work, although as @270six suggested, vacuum first with a soft brush in small, circular strokes and high-suction vacuum.
Quote:
Procedure:
Before “retreating” or “protecting” a fabric, the fabric first must be thoroughly cleaned. Fabric protector products bond most effectively to a perfectly clean fiber. Anything not removed from the fiber interferes with the bonding and performance of the fabric protector product. All dirt, body oils, sweat, lotions, oils of any type, residuals including un-removed soap or detergent residue....impede bonding and performance.
A clean appearance alone is NOT sufficient. And if washing with water alone were sufficient, we wouldn’t need detergent when washing our underwear, would we? An appropriate cleaning agent must be used. After washing, the fabric must be THOROUGHLY rinsed. To remove all suspended soils and cleaning agent residues, of course. Detergents are not easily rinsed off. As a general rule, wash thoroughly once, rinse thoroughly twice. Fabrics that require dry cleaning: The dry cleaning process leaves no residue. No additional prep is required.
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Edit: Found
TRM Manufacturing HD12 Weatherall Painter's Plastic 0.31 Mil Clear Hi Density Sheeting, 1 Box of 400 Feet Long by 12 Feet Wide