Lmao, both of you are kind of right. Allow me to explain.
This is the clutch I currently have installed that has slipped:
NZ2-XTSS // Advanced Clutch Technology
As you can tell the clutch disc has a small opening for a moderate to heavy pedal effort. This feel was EXTREMELY STIFF when first installed. This made me pretty much relearn how to drive this car which probably damaged the clutch a bit. The new clutch I'm getting has a much more open face of the clutch disc.
Here is where it went wrong:
At the time with installing of the clutch and pressure plate and ACT flywheel, I also installed the Z1 CSC elim kit, which when not adjusted correctly or every couple thousand miles, the tuning fork and throw-out bearing in the clutch system will constantly wear on the clutch causing it to slip.
That is not the main issue, but provides more than normal wear over time. The main issue is that there have been many times I have had to High Rev Downshift where the added stress on the clutch is immense. A lot of times downshifting back into the 5-6k rpm range. Usually due to other drivers around me and traffic. There have been a couple times I can count on one hand that I have burnt up the clutch. Of course I always thought "Why? if my foot is all the way off the clutch" but I figured after hearing about the fork and throw-out bearing it made more sense.
It also doesn't help doing spirited drives through GMR every month as well. Lots of shifting and lots of high rev downshifts after coming out of a turn and going into the next.
So a combination of High Rev Downshifts, fork and bearing wear and having to almost launch when in 1st has made for the Clutch Slip.
Quote:
Originally Posted by birdman71
Yeah just a couple notes to you about the ACT clutch if you went with the nd2 xtss, like I have, and NOT the hdss...
1. don't high rev downshift
2. don't downshift PERIOD lol, throw it in neutral and coast into a stop
3. Brake pads are cheaper than clutches in parts and labor
4. Learn from my dumbass
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This is why my recommendations were:
#1: If you want ANY clutch to last the longest, but especially this one, don't down shift unless you are downshifting only up to 3500 rpm or so. The added stress on the clutch is normal at that point.
#2 : This was more of a joke, although if you think about the cost of a clutch compared to brake pads it is cheaper to buy brake pads while not downshifting to save clutch life.
Since Mig (fairladyz40th) went with the same clutch system I did as I linked above minus the Z1 csc kit, I was just letting him know not to high rev downshift and don't be a dumbass like me and wear out his clutch in 4 months like I did. Otherwise itll be another $1k outa pocket... again like me... :shakeshead: Heck right now I CANNOT get my revs above 3200, otherwise the clutch slips and shoots the revs. It also takes me close to 20 seconds to get going 35mph from a deadstop
After doing more research on the types and differences in the clutch plate, plus researching about the stock pedal vrs rjm v3.1 pedal I went with a new clutch and the rjm v3.1 pedal as well. The stock pedal will cause wear on an aftermarket clutch too.