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Old 05-10-2016, 01:50 PM   #488 (permalink)
jax4557
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Jacksonville
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Drives: 2014 370z Sport M6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solidus View Post
Make sure you explain the nature of the RJM clutch before the install if you have one. If you dont, you're gonna set it up again on your own and they're gonna have the worst time ever trying to bleed it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwick View Post
Even for E85 and a future block I think 1150s are overkill. Guys are making into the 700whp with 1000s.

I could be wrong but I don't think the car will even idle with 1150s and the stock map. You tripled the injector size so it's going to triple the fuel its dumping.
Quote:
Originally Posted by solidus View Post
I would'nt bet on a workaround but it may be possible. When I tore the thing apart last week there were only 5 wires to the main harness on it. ( Constant , Switched, Ground and the other two I assumed were input to the oil temp but I'm a cop not an engineer so don't trust that. ) The assembly itself is much cheesier than you would imagine since it's hidden behind the hoods and the dash. The other discovery is that once you pull the hoods off you are permanently in double sided tape land. A second but important thing to remember ( I knew it before I glued but I still did'nt pay attention. ) IF you decide to go custom guages mark the hood and the gauge housings in 1,2,3 order because if you permanently afix the gauges to a housing thats your permanent order unless you feel like breaking them apart and putting them in the order you initially wanted. ( I will be showing Oil temp, AFR and Oil press. I wanted to show Oil Temp , Oil Press and AFR )
If there is wires instead of PCB going to the oil temp gauge I can certainly solder extension wires and cap the rest of the stiff off belonging to volt and clock. My goal would be to get the oil temp into the cubby for on the fly ecutek changes.

Any pictures by chance?
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