Quote:
Originally Posted by DjSquall
I'm quite familiar with brake fluid flushes, I do them every spring. I just pump the pedal instead of using a power bleeder.
I was more leaning towards whether u need to apply any thread lock or anti seize anywhere, which parts should I clean & lube, and how to best route and install the hoses...
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You do not need any type of threadlock or anti-sieze on any bolt you touch in the brake swap. However, it really helps to put some anti-sieze on the back side of the rotor where it contacts the hub. It makes taking them off easier when you change rotors for new ones or have to do something where they come off.
You would benefit from cleaning off the pad hardware and putting new high temp silicone grease on them when you do the swap.
The routing of the brake lines depends on what company you buy them from, as there are a couple ways they are done. I highly recommend Goodridge lines, as they are designed exactly like the factory lines, but with stainless lines instead. You can get them from places like Forged Performance or Corner 3 Motorsports.