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Originally Posted by RequiemZ
So a quick overview of the products. I wasn't able to get some of the exact supplies suggested by Junkman so i had to supplement with what i could find. The only thing i didnt different was when misting the pad to use the polish remaining after the first pass, i used water and for M105 i used 2 sprays and for M205 i used 1 Spray. This seemed to keep the pad moist enough and not clog the pores. Detail spray for me clogged the pad up quickly.
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The reason you had issues with the detail spray not working well was because of the BRAND of detail spray that you used. They are all not created equally and the IUDJ that I recommend can be diluted into multiple formulas. There's also Optimum's brand of detail spray that works very well also.
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Originally Posted by RequiemZ
Things i bought but haven't used yet: Quality Wash mitts, Foam gun + Foam
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And if you want to maintain the shine you achieved, you should definitely implement those items into your next wash.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RequiemZ
Porter cable 7472
- Great unit worked perfect for what i needed it to do. It will last me for quite some time.
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That machine is built like a ox. I have had mine for 8 years, trouble free.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RequiemZ
M105
- Very impressed, was able to remove 2000grit sanding blemishes with ease. Removed 80% of all the damage within one pass on my paint.
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Now did you actually use 2000 grit sandpaper on your paint? Because I know from using 2000 grit on paint that you have to use a PERFECT technique
with the PC to actually remove that kind of damage. 2000 grit sandpaper damage is on the most OUTER edge of what the PC can remove. As a matter of fact, I won't use a PC to remove that kind of damage. I use a Flex.
M105 itself can pretty much remove ANY of the paint sanding grits when used with a capable polisher.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RequiemZ
M205
- I didnt think i would notice a difference with using this after M105 but man yes it brings out a crazy shine
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This is why I don't use AIO (all-in-one) products to do paint correction. They NEVER finish down like the 1-2 punch of a compound followed by a polish.
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Originally Posted by RequiemZ
Chemical Guys Premium Microfiber cloths
- Didn't know what to expect with these, i got 12 total. They are great value for the money and don't scratch the paint. They do have a tag so i always folded it to cover the tag so it didn't scratch the clear.
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Here's the problem with those cheap, made in China towels. You won't necessarily see the damage right away from using one but over time, you will look at your paint and wonder where in the world all of those scratches are coming from. Every time you use one of those cheap towels, you start unraveling all of the work that you did this weekend. Over time, you will have to repeat all of this work again and I know from experience that the 370Z is not one of those cars where they laid the clear coat on real thick.
In my video, I stress the importance of recognizing what you did wrong to end up with jacked up paint and to avoid repeating those things once your paint has been fixed. Right now, you are starting right back down that very road. Three words:
Eagle Blue Edgeless. You have got to get keen to them if you want to maintain perfect looking paint.
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Originally Posted by RequiemZ
Chemical Guys Waffle Weave Cloths
- Very useful for the liquids and very absorbent. I only got 2 of them and should of got more.
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Two words: The Pluffle.
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Originally Posted by RequiemZ
Mequiars Quik Detail Spray
- I used this to help remove the polish so it wouldn't dry up and dust on me. I alternated between a wet microfiber cloth for removing the majority of the polish and then a dry for wiping of the tiny remaining polish.
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Infinite Use Detail Juice. As an alternative, Optimum's Detail Spray is another good brand. Then you won't have to make the mistake of using water.
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Originally Posted by RequiemZ
Chemical Guys 5050 Wax
- Awesome wax, great smell, easy application, great beading. Will definitely use this again.
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Since I didn't go into waxes on these videos, I will state what I use here. I use paste waxes by Collinite. I like both their Super Double-Coat Carnuba Paste Wax and their Marque D’Elegance Carnauba Paste Wax. The latter cost more but last much longer than any other carnuba paste waxes that I've used. The sealants that I use are made by Hi-Temp, particularly their polymer sealant Terminator HT-62.
I understand that people want to save money and that's why they cut corners. But a LOT of what you buy detailing wise will last you for years and is an initial up front one time purchase. Since you're not detailing a Yugo, spend the money and treat your car right. If the Z wasn't a nice car, I wouldn't be posting on this forum. So treat it like it deserves to be treated. When the paint on these cars is right, they stand out like trophy wives (or trophy husbands for all the girls reading
).