Quote:
Originally Posted by James10694
Not trying to be nosey or rude and I'm no mechanic or track junkie, but I've seen some terrifying videos of track cars with spacers. (Probably cheap setups.) I also don't know your situation, but if the car is mainly used for the track shouldn't you just get a different wheel and offset?  |
What they said.
The spacers are 45mm thick and hubcentric. Even if they weren't a 6000 grade of aluminium the chances of it braking are slim to non. And since its hub centric all the weights on the hub, not the studs. This really isnt any different then buying a wheel in 10.5" with a -30 offset. And like DE said i can rotate all 4 wheels sinse the fronts a 10.5 +15 too.
The new studs from ARP are 190,000 psi tensile strength. You arent going to get better than that. The 10.9 bolts in the spacers are 150,000 psi. I might change those if i see a problem and get new open lugs since ARP are longer but 10.9 is some pretty serious stuff. And again its all hub centric so the studs only holding the wheel on the spacer. Not holding the load of the car up.
As for cars breaking that youre seen...you CANNOT run different lugs. Lugs need to be steel! These cheap color aluminium or "titanium" ones that cost a couple hundred, no thanks!! Having softer or two different metals holding on each other is the problem. They heat up and expand and different temps. Whether its said in the vids or not i can guarantee different metal lugs where used. That or the studs were so used and over tightened that they lost a good hold.
The spacers have steel lugs, red locktight, and torqued to 100ftlbs. The black steel lugs and holding the wheel down are 90ftlbs. I believe it'll all be ok.