Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamillio
I think my problem is with the lock nut behind clevis and rod counter. I have no idea what any of that means.
The only pieces I have seen that were adjustable were the slider that moves the pedal up and down vertically. This had to be in the lowest position for me so that the clutch cylinder rod was aligned at a proper angle so that the seals don't wear out prematurely as stated in the instructions. The second one is the knob, the knob does not change the engagement point though.
I checked I do have about 1.5 inches of clearance, just that engagement point takes even more force to push and is shorter than stock.
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Kamillio, yes the AFP adjusting knob most certainly does affect the engagement point and the feel. As I stated before you'll need to go back and readjust both the AFP to the correct starting point of 70% following the directions I've posted above (or from the guide) and also increase the clutch rod adjustment to raise the pedal height.
The 3 main adjustment points are:
1) The Red Knob which controls AFP setting. The AFP affects both the feel of the engagement width, the firmness of the pedal and indirectly affects how low the friction point is. Increasing AFP makes the pedal Softer, Engagement Smoother and Friction Point Lower.
Saying your pedal is currently harder then stock to press means your AFP setting isn't set correctly. When setup to 70-80% the pedal will be softer to press then stock and wider engagement zone.
2.) The clutch rod that threads into the clevis fork. This rod threads in deeper to directly make the friction point and overall pedal height lower. Threading it out makes the friction point higher and overall pedal height higher. Use a 12mm wrench and loosen the locknut to adjust this. Once the nut is loose turn the rod clockwise (when facing the firewall) to raise the engagement point. Then tighten the nut again before testing the new engagement height.
3.) The whole center section of the pedal assembly moves up and down to adjust the angle of the clutch rod to ensure it pushes the master cylinder rod as straight as possible. It's preferable for the rod to be setup to be level at mid stroke and just slightly above level with the pedal full up. Because the pedal linkage travels in an arc about a center point the linkage moves downward as it rotates thru it's stroke. So the linkage will start slightly above level and dip to be straight at mid-stroke and then rise slightly up again at the bottom of the stroke.
As well after the above changes you'll need to ensure that the upper cruise control switch isn't holding the pedal arm down, stopping it from returning fully up. Adjust the two nuts on the switch so that with the pedal fully up the switch button is fully pressed and the white bumper just lightly touches the metal body of the switch.