View Single Post
Old 07-16-2015, 09:38 PM   #18 (permalink)
Zoren 370
A True Z Fanatic
 
Zoren 370's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: FL
Posts: 11,018
Drives: 11 Nissan 370 M6
Rep Power: 1913653
Zoren 370 has a reputation beyond reputeZoren 370 has a reputation beyond reputeZoren 370 has a reputation beyond reputeZoren 370 has a reputation beyond reputeZoren 370 has a reputation beyond reputeZoren 370 has a reputation beyond reputeZoren 370 has a reputation beyond reputeZoren 370 has a reputation beyond reputeZoren 370 has a reputation beyond reputeZoren 370 has a reputation beyond reputeZoren 370 has a reputation beyond repute
Default

Hi Ps_Z

Want to share with you a suggestion from one of our forum member dpathfinder which helped alot with my alignment and made my Z really run very good. Read on and follow his suggestion.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Zoren 370
Hi

Im planning to change my wheels with size 19x9.5 and 19x11. I do have a 370Z plan to have Tein S springs also.
As you mentioned the front upper arm for the Z does not allow much camber adjustment.
With this type of set up do you think I need to have a camber kit bolt on in front and rear?
I do not track the car mainly on street driving with occasional wild driving.

Thanks for the input.

Dpathfinders response:

It all depends on what you want to do. If you need to bring the camber back to spec, the OEM front suspension will not allow you to adjust camber at all. The rear camber can be adusted to a certain degree in the back. With a 1.25" drop up front and a 1" drop in the rear, which is typical of most lowering springs (even Tein S, despite advertising a 3/4 " drop, my friend's drop seemed more like 1 to 1.25"), your camber will likely sit at around -1.6 to -1.9 up front and -2.4 to -2.8 in the rear. I was lowered on coilovers and I decided to get SPC camber kits front and rear to allow for freedom of adjusting my suspension as I wanted. For an aggressive street/occasional track setup, I ran the following specs: F = -2.2 camber, max castor, 0 toe, R = -2.0 camber, 0.15 deg toe in. The increased front camber actually improves turn-in response.

So, I would recommend that you allow the springs to settle first and then do a wheel alignment. If your front camber is fairly even left compared to right and if your camber is in the neighborhood of -1.6 to -2.0 then just leave it. I suspect your rear camber can be adjusted back to a maximum of -2.2 to -2.4 with the stock suspension pieces. That may cause a bit of uneven wear. Ideally, it should be somewhere between -1.5 to -1.9. So if that bugs you, you can get a rear camber kit.

Hope that helps out.
Zoren 370 is offline   Reply With Quote