View Single Post
Old 05-23-2015, 10:28 PM   #25 (permalink)
Zipper 104
Enthusiast Member
 
Zipper 104's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Canada's Wet Coast
Posts: 480
Drives: '13 PW/Frost/Spt/AT
Rep Power: 11
Zipper 104 will become famous soon enough
Default Old thread resurrected

I did my SPC toe bolts and Camber arm lock out bolts today.
If that subframe is aluminum, well, that's the toughest MF aluminum I've ever come across. I went through a Dremel 115 and didn't even get the inboard side of the first hole elongated before it was shot.
I bought two 115s from info on this thread and they are not what you want, at least on my 2013. The subframe is about 2-3 mm of steel. The packaging for my 115s says they are for wood and ceramics. No metal of any sort mentioned at all.
I abandoned the job and the 115s after the one hole and went off to Home depot, 2 blocks from me thankfully. What I picked up was a 2 pack of Dremel Chainsaw sharpening bits. In the event they failed I also picked up a high speed cutter for STEEL as a last resort. The idea was to try the former and if they worked return the latter. The HS cutter was twice the price for one bit, versus a pack of 2 of the chainsaw bits.
Anyway, the chainsaw bits were somewhat fragile but after I got the hang of it worked like a charm. I got all three remaining holes out of them, plus I touched up the first hole. (you can get 4 of them for the price of one HS cutter) When done I returned the HS cutter unopened.
Elongating the toe bolt holes was easily the toughest part of the job.
I removed the entire spring bucket to make room to get in there. Thanks to whomever suggested that.
The trick with the chainsaw bits is to not lean on them too hard, but move along their whole length using medium pressure to avoid wearing them in any one spot. I blew the first one up before I figured this trick out. I never did try the HS cutter but it would probably have been the best bit to use, just expensive. If you could get 4 holes opened up with this one bit it would have been worth it but I was skeptical.
I torqued the camber arm bolts, (both the new lockout and the original outboard bolt) and the bolts on either end of the spring bucket to spec.
I also torqued the wheel lugs to the 80 ft lb spec. Wow. Talk about over tightening them when using the lug nut wrench. I figure I had been tightening to over 100 ft lbs everytime I put wheels back on not using a torque wrench.


Hope this helps. If just one person finds this of value it was worth it.

104
Zipper 104 is offline   Reply With Quote