thompsontechs

If you have the HR version you do not need to pull the crank sensor.... this is a HUGE pain in the *** you dont need to deal with.

I pulled it and spoke to Joe as well as looked it over and there is no need to do so. I put it back in BEFORE i bolted the trans up. no problem. I mention this because it will save ya an hour of cussing.

Also the top are a lot easier to get to if you drop the tail down a bit (fluid loss or cap) this also lets you get to many of the sensors easier.

TIPs: Make sure the tail is back up before you try and mount the start or it will be at the wrong angle to start those two bolts.

Take pictures of all the brackets in place to help you remember where everything goes. Any bolt nut, which can be screwed back in/on after removal, do it.

Trans seating is much easier when you figure out that you need to lift up on the header pipe as the back of the motor sags without the trans to hold it. Have a guy lift up on it to varying degrees as you try and slide it forward. DO NOT use the bolts to pull in a trans that is not seat properly as someone here did. Trans will mate perfect without it, if it doesn't then something is off!

Doing this one on jack stands blows. If you can get one done for $500 labor do it. This was by far the biggest pain in the *** of a trans I've done. Tow bolts holding on brace for FI exhaust were 292 LT into the trans... even with heat they broke and had to be drilled and tapped. Nasty business laying on the floor.

If you are an older guy then I would look at this job in terms of days and not hours, esp on jackstands. It's doable, but I give it a solid 9 on the pain in the arse scale.