Oh, the "warped rotor" topic.
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I'm not sure there is any such entity as "warped brake rotors". I'm more inclined to think that your braking technique is leading to uneven deposition of pad material on the rotor.
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I wish I could give you a hug, although I don't want the " your braking technique" to sound condescending.
Pick up one of your rotors. Those things are heavy as crap. They won't warp with daily driving. They will however, get uneven deposits from braking which will cause the shudder the OP is describing. Most mechanics refer to this as "warped rotors" which is a colloquialism for uneven deposits and a carryover from a time when rotors could warp - as on my 1959 car with CDs for rotors. The absolute fix for uneven deposits (or, actual warped rotors) is to have them turned on a lathe or replace them. Alternatively, the OP could try rebedding the pads (if the pads are worth keeping with life left on them) to see if that helps.
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The only negatives that I have seen regarding the sport brakes are that they can get hot and the stock fluid can boil during track sessions. Otherwise, they are regarded quite highly.
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Agreed, the brakes on this car are pretty stout and have held up fine for me on track. But no one should use OEM fluid for track days. The OEM rotors will also get eaten up with aggressive pads on the track. The only negative about sport brakes is what a number of people on this site assume to be the stock bias resulting in "ice mode" in heavy braking. This is more a software problem than a hardware problem.
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Stabbing (Or more like one or two second brake applications at a time) the brakes is actually not a bad technique for long downhill driving because it reduces heat build up.
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Downshifting is a better technique and it's why you get a manual or use the "+" "-" paddle on an auto.
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Do you agree, the new 2013 Sport Package calipers are basically OK? I think Nissan also uses them on the Nismo...
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Yes they are fine, if you get really into tracking you may want to upgrade though. If the brakes weren't fine you'd be hearing about it on the news.
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My recommendation is go with the Z1 two-piece rotors, to have the added benefit of lowering the unsprung weight.
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Unless the OP is a serious track enthusiast (or really after bling) there would be no point in springing the $ for two piece rotors. And even if the OP gets into track stuff, the heavier a rotor is the more heat it can soak up before it transfers that heat to the pads and the brake fluid. Unless you are really deep into competitive driving and have some good ducting to cool your brakes, I'd stick to 1 piece rotors. On a related note, the Z1 1 piece rotors are inexpensive and a good unit - although I do have some teeny tiny cracks/pitting on mine from track duty.
From another thread:
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Short rant about brake discs:
1) Heat is the killer of brake systems, especially brake pads. The rotor is the main heat sink of the brake system. The heavier the rotor in general, the more heat it can soak up and keep the total system cooler. This makes brake pads last much longer since heat is what eats up pads. So heavier = better. Lightening rotational mass is nice and all, but being able to use your brake pads because they aren't burned down to the backing plate is better.
2) Slotted rotors are designed to help limit buildup on the rotor. Buildup on the rotor is what causes the steering wheel to shake when you hit the brake, I think it's kind of hard to actually warp a huge hunk of steel (I'm sure at temps as high as brakes on a race car get you can though). The vanes in rotors help cool them. Slots do not.
3) Cross drilled rotors make no sense to me. I already said rotors are a heat sink, and the more mass the more heat a rotor can soak up. Why would you drill holes in a rotor to lighten it then? Worse though is that cross drilled rotors crack.
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If you go new rotors, I would avoid cross drilled ones as cross drilled rotors (unless you are paying out the wazoo) are more likely to fracture. Will you crack them driving around town, probably not, but it's a safety item so do it right. Slotted rotors are great, but be advised that many garages will not be able to turn slotted rotors with an ordinary lathe.
Cliff Notes
1. Try to rebed your pads (search if you need instructions)
2. If that fails either get your rotors turned ($10 at O'Reily's sounds great) or replace your rotors with blank or slotted rotors.