Quote:
Originally Posted by victorofhavoc
Sorry to just butcher it entirely, but that was all too confident of an answer when you've never seen the car and the person doesn't have more clear symptoms  |
Thank you for fixing my statement but I stand by what I said. Note, my post was not necessarily telling the OP what was wrong, but giving a "general" statement about "warped" rotors and how to fix them. And my statement of 70-20 stands as going from 20 to 5 only increases your chance of stopping on them and adding more deposits. You need RPM on the wheels to clean them...and a good brake foot.
MOST original diagnosis of "warped rotor" is actually residue, or deposits, on the brake rotor. This is not according to ME, but to some guy known as Carrol Smith. It comes from coming to a stop with a hot rotor, and just letting the brake sit on the rotor under pressure unless they are REALLY hot, then pressure doesn't really matter much.
If you come to a stop with a HARD brake, try to not sit with your foot on the brake pedal, or minimize pressure on it as much as possible. This creates a "transfer" in the shape of your brake pad and leaves a deposit.
"Rebedding" **can** clean that deposit, but sometimes if it is way bad, a new rotor, or turning the rotor, is in order.
I think that the material used in stock Z brakes lends itself to leaving a lot of material behind, as I have also experienced this shudder under hard braking (autocross or occasional "lap" at a track when I haven't changed pads). It always cleans up though.
Tracy Ramsey