View Single Post
Old 01-01-2015, 10:16 PM   #505 (permalink)
Rangerz
Enthusiast Member
 
Rangerz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Northern Utah
Age: 59
Posts: 476
Drives: 2012 370 Nismo
Rep Power: 12
Rangerz has a spectacular aura aboutRangerz has a spectacular aura about
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cossie1600 View Post
will do. actually I have noticed my fuel sender unit is funky at times. It isn't accurate and sometimes it doesn't move at all. Is this something I can fix while I am at this?
Yes, as part of the install you will check the ohms on the sending unit. Good time to check the float resistance on the main pump as well. You can find the specks in the FSM. Just take your time and read. Rusty put up a good reference thread too.

Some things you may want to source now if you don't have them.
1. A good solder gun
2. RTV silicone fuel safe
3. Crimpers for the specific connectors that come with the kit. I used **** crimpers on my wire strippers and wish I had the correct ones. Phunk can tell you the type to get.
4. Workmans mirror
5. Transfer pump for the fuel.
6. Most important one ...PATIANCE

I had some issues with installation but, looking back most were self inflicted and getting frustrated that it wasn't going as smooth as I thought it would have.

You have lots of people to ask about it though and when you done and on the track next no worries on high G right handers at 1 to 2 dots on the gauge. The thing just works.
__________________
Stillen Gen III/ NST/ Fast Intentions Non-Res HFC & 12" Resonated CF TDX/ Setreb series 9 OC/ SPL upper control arms/ Whiteline front & rear swaybars/ Uprev tuned by Seb@specialtyZ/ 319HP 262TQ/ Z1 PS Cooler/ Z1 SS Premium break lines/ CJM Road Race pump/Carbotech F:XP10 R:XP8 Nismo OC DIY

Last edited by Rangerz; 01-01-2015 at 10:18 PM.
Rangerz is offline   Reply With Quote