Jordo!

As a general set of rules, whichever end is made stiffer, the less it will tend to grip and the more it will tend to slip; whichever end is heavier will tend to shift weight around more, and thus come loose; whichever end has poorer grip will tend to break traction.

In theory, to induce oversteer, all else remaining unchanged, you would want to run a stiffer bar in the rear, not remove it.

It gets trickier as you brace various sections, play with spring rates, tire camber, etc, but my guess is you'll want it as neutral as possible with just enough oversteer to suit your skill level.

All that said, if you touch nothing else on the car, but brace the hell out of the rear (e.g., with a stiffer anti-sway), it will be more likely to break traction on a turn.

Of course, you want it to be predictable and controllable, so that will depend on your skill, comfort, and familiarity with whichever course you are running. Just enough oversteer for one turn can be catastrophic for another depending on skill... dial in with caution.

Best thing to do if you are really serious is stick with OEM settings and get good with that -- FR cars tend to be a bit oversteer biased anyway (its pretty easy to break the rear tires loose on the Z), even though road cars tend to to be tuned from the factory to lean towards understeer.

If you can get the nose to tuck in consistently and controllably now, but feel you can handle more turn-in, go with a stiffer rear bar, ideally one that is adjustable.

Again, me personally, I like it as neutral as possible, with just a touch of oversteer, but my skills are modest.

On that note, I've previous set up FF's to rotate -- FF's are much more biased towards understeer, but it can be done if you brace the hell out of the right sections.

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