Autox season is over :-( now time to plan my mods for next year. With the tires and a front sway bar my times got way better this year. Had a few times where I would have had 1st had I not hit a cone. For next year I want to fix two major problems:
1. The car is pushing very badly. Some of this is me but I think it might be mostly because I have my front bar on full stiff and I have no camber up front.
2. Under hard braking the car does a full nose dive and the back feels like it fully unloads, becoming really hard to control. I know weight should shift forward a bit but I think it might be too much.
To fix problem 1 I am finally going to get some camber arms, I am thinking about these
AMS 370Z FRONT ADJUSTABLE CAMBER ARM - Suspension - 370Z / G37.
Anyone have any feedback on these at all? They look same as the kintex and are cheaper. With these I think I might get close to -2 degrees of camber with a drop and some modification.
For problem 2 I think its finally time for coli-overs. I have never had a set on any car before so I don't know what spring rates I want. Any tips from the pros would be greatly appreciated. I will be on 275 Dulop z2's square.
For coil overs I have narrowed it down to three choices. I need something that is below $2k, is corrosion resistant, comes with at least 10k springs and has valving good enough for autox.
1. KW v3's
Pros:
Corrosion resistant
Double adjustable
great brand
lifetime warranty
cons:
progressive springs
spring rates on 10.5k\9k, not sure if that's high enough up front
uses stock top hat
no custom valving
2. Koni yellow sports re valved with hyperco springs, bc hi/low kit, adjustable perches and body's cut to allow the car to go low.
pros:
Corrosion resistant
great brand
any spring rate I want
any valving I want
cons
single adjustable
just as expensive as kw
uses stock top hats
not sure how good they are compared to HKS and and KW
hard to reach adjusters
3. HKS hipermax GT IV
pros:
linear springs 12k\9k
aftermarket tophats
new valving to improve low speed damping ( dunno if this is bs or not)
Corrosion resistant
Monotube and not twintube
cons:
long time for rebuilds
no custom valving
All 3 options are around the same price with 2 being the most expensive
I am leaning towards option 2 and 3 but cant really decide. Do you guys have any valuable input to help me make the right decision. I am not trying to take the cheap route but want something that is good enough for DD and regional competition.
Thanks for the help