I wrote a long post last night but then my stupid iphone timed out and i lost the post while trying to post it
I ended up using the starter bump method to break the bolt loose on mine. Hand impact tool didnt budge it at all. The trick is to not wedge the breaker bar against the ground when you crank it. The idea is to have the bar in a position where it can swing a bit and gain some momentum then strike the ground - it's that sudden impact that will crack it loose. Otherwise you'll just cook your starter motor because it will try to lift the car up instead.
Since our cars are a button start system rather than a mechanical key system which cuts out when you release the key, you have to do things a bit differently to avoid starting the engine (like i did). I strongly suggest pulling the EFI fuse at the least, but someone else will need to chime in on other methods to prevent the motor from starting (not sure how to disable spark without disconnecting the coil packs).
Mine is a 6MT so the clutch pedal interlock switches work just like letting go of the key in an older car - let go of the clutch pedal and it stops cranking.
For 7AT, you might be able to get by by letting go of the brake pedal.
Pretty much when you hear the click and the half second that follows, let go of the pedal. Have a few goes before you set up the breaker bar.
I think i mentioned it in the other thread but doing the pulleys is not an easy task. It's very time consuming, frustrating and you'll be working with your eyes closed at some point (alternator pulley).
The other challenge will be locking up the crank to tighten the bolt to spec. On other auto trans cars i've done pulleys on, i've jammed a large socket in the large holes/cutouts in the flywheel and then turned the crank manually using a ratchet til the socket is wedged in place. This is where it might be easier on a 7AT than 6MT because the flywheel has holes in it whereas 6MT guys will have to jam the ring gear (or stand on the brakes which wasnt totally effective for me).
Goodluck!