juld0zer

everyone should take a few moments to read thru the big thread relating to NST pulleys. There's a lot of helpful and reassuring info in amongst the sales related questions and posts but nevertheless a good primer for the job ahead of you.

planning is important. dont expect the crank bolt to come off easily. this is not the kind where you can go nuts with a rattle gun - there's no space. unless you determine the effort required to remove the radiator, core support and crash beams is worth it to get your rattle gun on it.

the alternator pulley nut doesnt come off easily either and unless you have the tools to lock the shaft, you will have to use a rattle gun (hooray) to get the nut off and on. but before you even get to that part, you have the epic task of removing the alternator. it's a royal bitch, again due to the space constraints. grazed hands and working by feel is the only way.

the earlier NST crank pulleys i hear were made to be a very very snug fit. mine was very snug and i had to use the crank bolt to drive it onto the crankshaft end. You could use a hammer and block of wood to slowly drive it on but just make sure to grease or oil the centre and the bolt itself (the entire thing, especially under the hex head where it mates with the front of the pulley. i haven't read the other thread in ages but i seem to recall NST revising the dimensions a tiny fraction to make fitment a little better in later versions.

oh and one final tip for those who dont want to read the other entire thread - you will need a slightly shorter belt. i am using a 7PK2000 but if you can get a 7PK1990 i think it would bring the auto tensioner back to factory spec