Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty
Take the adjusters apart and anti-sieze the threads. Pay attention to the instructions for adjusting the heim joints. I measured the stock arms from center of the ball joint to the center of each pivot. Then I adjusted the SPL arms the same. Took it to the alignment shop. Stock height Nismo. Camber set at -2, Caster set at +6. Toe is zero to slightly in. The front feels great. Even on the street. Tire wear is like the stock settings so far. This is with the Hotchkis bar in front.
With what you want to do with two different alignment setting. Your toe WILL change will each setting. Also your caster will change too, if you only move one adjuster.
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I plan to dial both to get Camber. (like x turns on each to dial in then x turns to dial out). I'm thinking 2 degrees or so track, one degree street. stock toe in for both street and track. (which means x turns on toe adjustment as well... I have no idea which way)
I will definitely anti seize the adjuster screws.
Did you guys count threads or anything when "stock adjusting" your setup. Without diving in yet, I'm thinking thread counting might be a good way to record and switch back and forth between setups. I'm hoping this is a quick adjustment I can do when I'm swapping in and out my track pads and track wheels. Maybe I can even do it at the track in the am before I start lapping?
I bought the more expensive SPL arms specifically because they looked easy to accurately adjust on the fly. Was I right?
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09 6spd Berk CBE, JWT cams, ZSpeed CSC, Stillen (25 row oil, brake cooling, sways, gen3 CAI), Passport (9500ci), Quaife LSD, Z1 400 hp kit, ss lines, pads, rotors, clutch etc, Phunk's pan and fuel starve fix
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