Sylvia Rocks

Been perusing this discussion and I'll chime in a little from over 40 years working on cars and bleeding brakes. First let's talk about brake fluid.
1. DOT 3 will interchange with DOT 4 and DOT 5.1. Never mix DOT 5.0 with any street car. It's really designed for cars are used as collector cars such as show hot rods and will hardly ever be used on the street. As mentioned, it compresses but does not absorb moisture like the DOT 3,4, & 5.1 will. Also you would have to flush out the entire brake system from any residual old fluid to got to DOT 5.1. It can play havoc on your brake system seals everywhere. I would never use anything today less than DOT 4.
2. Bleed your brakes every year if possible and if you track your car, preferably after every track weekend. If you do that, you will give yourself a greater chance of never really experiencing any seal failures in your brake system because of corrosion from water which all DOT 3,4, & 5.1 fluids will absorb over time. And for you manual shifters out there, don't forget you clutch master and slave cylinders as well. Cheap insurance.
3. Use a good quality fluid such as MOTUL RB 600 and the like especially if you track the car. These fluids have a higher wet and dry boiling points and resists producing air bubbles when taxed real hard. And remember even on the streets, you can bring up your rotor temps to over 800+ degrees depending on how you use them. Don't skimp here, it could mean your life.
4. Purchase a good set of flare wrenches. They work great for the brake system nuts and bolts but also work great on some other nuts and bolts which maybe a little corroded and are hard to turn. Reduces rounding off of nuts and bolts by a bunch.
5. Stainless steel brake lines. Really the main resistance to expansion comes from the PFE -3 tube which is surrounded by the stainless steel braid to add extra protection and comply with DOT specs. I've seen this same material without the braid used in high pressure fuel injection systems on engines and they have resisted pressures equal to or greater than a brake system produces. Great stuff. And yes they are much better than an old set of OEM brake lines unless the factory has also installed them.
6. When bleeding fixed calipers I've heard and have followed the practice of bleeding the other bleed screw and then the inner one. Also the sequence is different for the Nissan series of cars. For the entire car, bleed the passenger rear first, passenger front, driver rear and then driver front. That's the last I heard from my dealer. However if all else fails, bleed the rears first (passenger, driver) and then the fronts in the same fashion. If in doubt, find out form the manual or ask your service department. Also make sure that you apply no power to your engine or car while doing this. The normal ABS system must not be turned on while bleeding the system and doesn't need to be. Put that key FOB on your workbench and the car completely turned off.
7. Use any brake bleeding method you want. Just make sure you keep the master cylinder always full while doing so and then when finished keep the level between the Min-Max.
8. Another little tip I've found which helps reduce brake fluid leaking everywhere when changing brake lines. You remember those little bleed screw covers on the calipers? Well take one off and then break the brake line loose where the hard line connects to it. Soon as you get the hard line off quickly put this bleed screw cover on the hard line and it will stop the fluid from leaking all day long. Don't worry, there is enough play to move the hard line up and away from the connection to do this. You can then take your time working your way back to the caliper to disconnect and reconnect the rest of the line without the fluid leaking everywhere around you and possibly draining your master cylinder completely dry without rushing to do it.

It's not that difficult and gets easier every time you do it. Good luck and enjoy your cars.

Al