What they said, but I'll add a few points:
Quote:
Originally Posted by RadioFlyer
First post on this forum! Yay me!
- larger radiator
- oil cooler
|
Definite must-haves for serious track usage. You can't possibly overkill on oil cooling for the track, go as big as you can fit. Block things off for street usage if it overcools in "normal" conditions.
Quote:
|
- PS fluid (some say just fluid, others say fluid/PS cooler)
|
I wouldn't worry about it until/unless you have a problem
Quote:
- brake ducts
- obviously pads/lines/fluid
|
Definitely brake ducts (e.g. Stillen's kit or fab something similar). RBF600 fluid. More on pads below...
Funny thing is, while I agree the VLSD isn't all that hot.... I've been putting off upgrading for a while, and I'm starting to wonder how much it's really worth. At the end of the day the inside wheelspin isn't killing me all that much, and somehow mine hasn't completely gone open-diff yet from VLSD wear. My engine failed from track abuse and the LSD is still going ok. At this point I just think of it as a laptime upgrade but not strictly necessary.
Quote:
- camber/caster control arms
- various suspension setup strategies to alleviate understeer
|
Basically you'll want more front caster/camber, especially if you lower the car at all while putting in a better coilover system.
Quote:
|
- Ice mode on the ABS - does UpRev or anyone offer a solution to reflash the TCU? Aside from workarounds like running weaker pads, what do you do about that? Can you pull the ABS fuse and disable it altogether?
|
You can disable the ABS, but it's not as simple as pulling a fuse. If you just pull the fuse it also turns off your rear brake lights. There is a wire you can cut (or put a switch on) to just disable the ABS module but not the brake lights. I don't have the details at hand, and I don't think anyone's ever distilled the info out of whatever thread it's in and made a simple DIY page.
If you leave ABS mode on and worry about Ice Mode, the trick is to bias the car to the front with pad compound choices. Use a weak rear pad and it mostly goes away. It is very situational depending on the track, the temps, and your driving style. What seems to trigger it is if the rears lock up while the fronts are still rolling, *especially* under any kind of yawing due to trail-braking into the corner. I get hit by it a lot if I'm not careful about pad selection because I'm a fan of using that trail-braking-yaw to finish rotating the car into the apex.
Re: pad bias, keep in mind that on this car the rears don't get as hot as the fronts either, and most compounds have a torque curve that peaks then falls off as things get really hot. If you had pad torque curve printouts, you'd want a significant torque bias between the two even though the rears are running a much lower temp than the fronts. Mostly it requires experimentation. A lot of people are happy with Carbotech with XP10 or 12 in the front and XP8 in the rear.
Related: The "VDC Off" button does not shut off all traction control, and it will matter if you're really pushing the limits in the corners. You need to unplug the Bosch Yaw Sensor located underneath the cupholder area inside the center console to completely kill all forms of traction control.
Quote:
|
- As for air to the brakes, I read that it has to do with the front aero - has anyone run it without the front undertray to see if that helps at all? I doubt it would do that much, but it sounds like every little bit would help.
|
I don't think it would be worth it, as it would have negative effects on other aero aspects (e.g. more engine bay airpressure pushing out the bottom, and dirtier air flowing in under the nose). No idea what it would do for brake cooling, but I think ducting is the better path to go down. You could try running the brake ducts to NACAs placed on the undertray though, might be better than the nose.
Quote:
|
- How do the bearings and hubs hold up? Do you see excessive knockback? If people are cooking their brakes all the time, does that mean they are going through bearings like crazy?
|
Bearings seem to last a long time without getting loose. The brake problems are just about the brakes. I never had any serious pad knockback on the stock Sport calipers.