Quote:
Originally Posted by 6MT
....I'm still deciding on the rail. It will either be the direct fit from NF or something different. Since my range only goes out to 300 yards, I may be looking at something different for the mount. The direct fit is a 20 MOA rise, so for 300 yards that may be too much for the scope. I might bottom the adjustment out and still not have enough for sub 500 yard solutions.
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The scope you ordered has 100 MOA (0 +/- 50 MOA) internal elevation adjustment. You should be okay with a 20 MOA base shooting at 300 yards and even 100 yards. Lets start with this; a 100 yard zero, the scope you ordered, 2" height over bore and a 0 MOA base. A 308 bullet rises about 1-2" @ 100 yards before dropping so the scope zero will be roughly in the middle of your elevation adjustment (@100 yards). Even if it takes 10 MOA up (Point Of Impact down) to zero the scope you're left with 40 MOA up (POI down) and 60 MOA down (POI up). In theory if you then add a 20 MOA base you'll then have 20 MOA up (POI down) left and 80 MOA for down (POI up) left for bullet drop. This is all theory, real world mileage might vary!
Hope I didn't confuse you more.
From what I have read you might have ran into an issue using a 20 MOA base for short range shooting if you had gone with a 1" tube scope or a cheap scope with limited adjustment. However you ordered a high quality 30mm tube scope with plenty of adjustment.
I would go with a rail and rings. Gives you a lot of options and makes swapping out optics easier. I plan on using a Badger Ordnance rail and rings for my future build. If you use a one piece mount or a rail, look into bedding it to the top of your receiver. Sometime the front and rear of a receiver are not perfectly lined up. This causes the scope mount to flex and that flex is transmitted into the scope tube. There are some good DIYs on YouTube of how to bed a one piece scope mount/rail.
Thanks for the pic BTW
