Quote:
Originally Posted by 03threefiftyz
I think you need to go back to that engineer and have him run you through it again...you didn't grasp it the first time.
2.0f/2.3r is going to be loose, 2.3f/2.1 is pretty nuetral and 2.1/2.0 is a little soft and probably still on the nuetrul side (tending towards oversteer)....
Fwiw, my race car sits in the 2.4f/2.25 and tends towards slightly loose on corner exit and that is with no rear bar.
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350 completely and respectfully disagree. Disagree since the freq calcs include corner weights, The guy I am talking to is Gordon Benson from Koni that engineered the 2812 long body. I know Koni these days isn't the "cool kids" choice of dampers, but math is math. If you want email him at
Gordon.benson@itt.com. Guy is awesome and will even get into the calculus of it.
Every post market "spring kit" out there tunes to something around .80-.85
because they can sell that product and not kill someone. Or at least not be sued for creating an "unsafe ride rate" as per the DOT.
that being said, I don't drive your car that you know intimately. I see what you are saying, because you know your car's frame, your sway bars, your tires, what you like, etc. better than I do, and are a much more experienced driver. But as for a baseline tuning point, and to understand how a suspension works(regardless of the car) the Front ride Freq/ rear ride Freq, tells you how the car is setup. <1 induced understeer. > 1 induced oversteer. That's not my opinion that's just physics. Doesn't tell you how to drive it fast, doesn't make you push the throttle when you know you maybe shouldn't, it's just a reference point.