Darkstar752

Just to update: DIY was great even without pictures, and helped a lot, although I wouldn't recommend the listed bleeding procedure. I tried to manually bleed the car for about 4 hours, but literally nothing was able to dislodge the air bubble that had gotten trapped in the master cylinder(I could hear it.) I used every technique out there, following instructions to a T, but gravity/depressing the pedal simply did not generate enough force to move the air down the line. I could build partial pressure, but the car was not driveable in the slightest.

In the end, I went to Advanced Auto and got a vacuum bleeder which I rented for free. Was done bleeding in about 2 minutes, with the reservoir cap off and another person monitoring the level while I sucked all the air and fluid out of the bottom.

Also, I soaked all of the hardline bolts in PB blaster the night before, they all came off easily besides the one by the manifold, but that still came off with some effort using a line wrench. I would say this is a necessary step, I would have stripped that nut otherwise, it is extremely tight. Also, 45-degree plier were the only thing to remove the pressure plate by the manifold flange. I left my ART pipes in and worked around them, wasn't too bad. The line wrench was bumping against the manifold rather than the pipes, so they weren't directly in the way.

EDIT: Also, do yourself a favor and file down the edges of the subframe before you do this job. They can be razor sharp, I slipped at one point and gave myself a pretty gnarly slice near my wrist. After I filed it down and it was safe even if I slipped, took less than a minute to file off the sharp edges.