First, let's discuss the reason's I went with ED for the kit. A friend of mine is a distributor of their products and wanted me to be the test mule for them. I agreed to try the kit out as I really liked the Amuse kit and there are literally none in this area. I liked the fact the kit was available in North America and that it was very reasonably priced (~$1500 minus wing).
Shipping is a big concern as we get charged a fortune to bring anything into Canada, and that's not including any duty charges! I orderd the comeplete Amuse body kit plus the JP-R hood.
Welcome to Extreme Dimensions :: Item Group :: 2009-2014 Nissan 370Z Duraflex AMS-GT Body Kit - 4 Piece
Welcome to Extreme Dimensions :: Inventory Item :: 2009-2014 Nissan 370Z Duraflex JP-R Hood - 1 Piece
I figured the shipping and brokerage was better as a package than to order a hood separately. Shipping and tax was just over $300, brokerage was about $150 (I brokered the package myself).
I already had the Seibon NS style rear spoiler waiting to be installed so I didn't need to order a rear wing for the kit.
The parts arrived in great shape. Well packaged in cardboard boxes, plastic and bubble wrap. Each piece had a stamp of authenticity on it as well. The JP-R hood was mounted on wood supports as well. Nice touch.
The parts have a black finish and are fairly flexible. I wouldn't recommend tossing them around though! lol
The parts also had a good quality screen mesh pre-installed as well. Remove that prior to working on the raw pieces and store it away for later. I sprayed my pieces in plasti-dip too. I didn't want silver mesh....
I don't have a shot of the hood by itself in the packaging etc. My bad...
I installed the hood onto the factory hinges easily. The hood is light but probably still heavier than the tock aluminum hood. I noticed that the stock hinge height was too high for the JP-R hood and I would have to modify it later on.
There is room to adjust the fit side to side etc with the hinge bolts. I let this go for now as I was just rough fitting.
The hood does not come with any hardware, so you must remove the old hardware from the stock hood and drill holes in the FRP to place your hardware. The good news is that the hole locations are formed into the FRP during the molding process, so it makes the job easier.
After getting the hood positioned, I adjusted the rubber stoppers and the latch height so the hood closed properly and close to factory settings. Then I rough mounted the front bumper to get an idea of how close it was going to fit!
This picture does not have the bumper screwed into place at all, just a friction fit for the moment. Again, you need to drill out all the mounting holes and snap tabs along the headlights before it will mount properly.
Now the bad parts... There was a small gap along the passenger headlight that would not butt up properly. The good news is it can be fixed! Slightly heating the FRP and 'pushing' the part towards the headlight allowed it to reform in the proper position. A small dent was created in the bumper from me pushing, but that would be fixed in bodywork.
Bolt in gap for scale:
The biggest disappointment with this kit is the skirts.... They are covers rather than replacements. They are a good fit, but still leave a ridge along the body to tell everyone they are not replacements but bolt ons.... Oh well.
Again, more dry fitting of the rear bumper. Overall fit of the kit out of the box was an 8/10 in my opinion.
You will notice in these pics that I have already cut out the license plate bolt location and the light and trunk release button locations. This is another area that will require a lot of attention. The license area is easy enough (even though I cut it out too low and had to fix it later! lol), but the light and trunk release bar was a pain. There is no support for the original assembly that is in the factory bumper and you must build/mod your own supports. I cut out the hole for the assembly, then had to custom build a surround and support for it on the FRP bumper. Not too hard for the average skilled guy, but it was my first time molding fibreglas and it was daunting.... In the end, fibreglas is great to work with and small strips of resin soaked fibreglas wrapped around the stock piece (protected by tape) allowed me to mold the bumper to fit the assembly. I used long bolts inside the bumper to secure the asembly to the FRP support molded into the ED piece. Sorry, no pictures of that as I was covered in fibreglas!
The quarter panels were very close, just a slight bulge that could be massaged out.
The fit around the lights was very good. There was a small chip in the corner of the bumper near the taillight, but again something minor that could be fixed in body work.
Here's a tip! Don't drag the panels over your paint job! This scratch was hard to get out...
Excellent fit around the exhaust too. That was a concern I didn't want to deal with.
I layed the Seibon wing on the hatch to get an idea of the final look...
The factory spoiler had to be removed, and there are many threads that detail that so I won't get into it here. Suffice it to say that it is not fun...
Then I dragged it outside to get a look at it with a few pins in place to hold it where it should be. Overall I was very happy with the general fit!
Here you can see where I did a little rough sanding of the 'bump' on the quarter area.
Then after a long wait for the body shop to have an opening.... in she went!
The first thing they did was cut and weld the hinges to the proper height for the hood.
Then they welded up all the old holes from the stock spoiler and drilled new ones for the Seibon. This process was an extra cost but I thought it was worth it.
Then they began touching up the corners that had small waves etc.
The hood needed to be sanded and blocked as well. Overall the hood had two little low spots. Nothing major.
It is important to note, the black finish gelcoat has to be sanded and prepped before paint on this kit. No shortcuts!
And then primed...
The rear bumper had the most work. Not because it was so bad, but there were more curves etc. Plus the small chip near the tailight that needed fixing. The body shop had one small accident as well and dropped the bumper on the floor, cracking it near the taillight corner too...
Lot's of test fitting...
