Quote:
Originally Posted by 1slow370
Ok lets get some things straight here, IF you are stock height or less than an inch drop you may be able to get away with larger eccentric camber bolts and hit -.5 to -1. If you want to bring the camber to 0 you will need arms. If you want to run less than -1 camber in the rear you will need toe bolts or toe arms. As for lockout bolts, they are not for adjustment they are LOCK OUT bolts. If you are using an adjustable arm you should have lock out bolts on it instead of eccentrics <--you are adjusting it with the arm, not the eccentric. IF YOU INSTALL AN ADJUSTABLE ARM WITHOUT LOCKOUTS YOUR SETTINGS WILL CHANGE. No point in paying extra for spl arms if you still have the eccenrics in there, the settings will still move until you put in lockout bolts.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1slow370
and the BEST part of 0 rear camber is your tires won't bald out on the inside as fast so you get A LOT more life out of them.
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Words of wisdom.
And you can still camber in like a mofo for the front to help aid in traction on turns