Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe@ZSpeed
We always recommend a new master cylinder with a new slave, Its like replacing your oil and not the filter.
Master CYL is just as worn as the slave, The same amount of crap/dirt and grime is in the master as is in the slave cylinder.
It's a matter of once you open the system, if the master is weak, it will not work correctly.
Our slave puts no more load on the master (actually a tiny bit less load/pressure) than the stock slave does, The clutch itself is what's going to increase the load on both parts.
The master cylinder is a $100 part, Why would anyone spend $1500+ on a clutch, Slave, Flywheel and not replace the cheapest part in the system?
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This sounds exactly like what happened to us, and oh how I wish someone had directed me here or told me to order a new Master Cylinder when I bought everything else. 4 of us, including several pro gearheads spent virtually the entire weekend yesterday trying to figure out what the frack the issue was, bleeding every technique we could think to try and getting limited resistance.
It would build some resistance, usually about halfway...very occasionally it would get very, very close to full resistance but then would inevitably lose it again...or we'd start the car, and it would go into gear once or twice then not again.
The first time we learned that the hard way thinking we were done and taking it on a test drive around the neighborhood only to become stranded...but we figured out if we gravity bled with the clutch fully extended we could "fake it" and get it into gear, enough to drive back home anyway.
Finally figured it had to be the Master, because we did replace with the heavy duty slave cylinder...came around looking here and elsewhere and everything I've read seems to point to the Master.
So I'm very much hoping that's the case, as we have one coming in tomorrow and I
need the car driveable by Wednesday.
Plus, ZDayZ is coming up...and I can't be out of the Z for that
