Quote:
Originally Posted by AZP Installs
There you go...
$1700 is still very inexpensive for coilovers. It also depends on what your goals are with your car. If it's for looks/stance/ride height, then any coilovers will do. If you want repeatability on the race track that doesn't depend on the springs stiffness and has actually wheel travel you will start looking at the more expensive coils. We had a client/fellow racer who had very expensive Motons on his Caymen S racecar. The car would constantly would go into limp mode after hitting curbing on the track. They brought in all kinds of experts to try to get the ECU to stop going into limp mode. Eventually we suggested they raise the car up. As soon as they did that, the car stopped going into limp mode because the suspension travel had been restored and the wheels were actually staying on the ground.
-Mike Paisan
Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.
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Brother price doesn't represent quality. You really think jrz's are worth 10-15-18 grand? Jesus come on! That's a joke. In the end it all comes down to CNC, gaskets and design. I think many are capable of making very good systems or even carbon copies of someone else and having them work great.
I'm a total believer though! I will total be taught by you if you show me stuff. Not just dyno's but insides, metallurgy of components, oils used, gasket types etc etc. I thought my OEM calipers were great. Then I saw a stop tech or someone's inside and they are not the same. The OEM will basically melt seals and stuff if it goes beyond a 20min track session. I see why stop tech can do 24hr endurance races. I'm not saying I don't believe you but I must see proof first. Manufacture dyno's are the last thing I'll ever believe! But if you have independent ones its one step closer.
I need rears at the moment only. I need a way to adjust preload because in a 3 wheel situation my swift racing 10k springs can pop out of the spl mid link bucket. I have two options, buy a shock that's adjustable height wise so I get preload or sell the spl and swift spring and buy a true type from someone. Biggest issue though is FA told me they valve for +-2k of what you should use. In the end I'll probably have a much stronger spring so buying one now valved for 10k just means I need to pay more for a revalve later if I use greater than 12k down the road. What say you?