Quote:
Originally Posted by edconline
I was bleeding the clutch tonight (well, attempting to) after installing the Z1 SS clutch line, and had a nightmare of a time, the walkthrough i was following did nothing to enlighten me. So the clutch was pushed super fast, super slow, bleeder open, bleeder closed. And every single DIY online gives a different way of bleeding. Shouldn't there only be one (proper) way to bleed a clutch system?
I see stuff about bleeding the master, then the slave, etc. Cap on, cap off while bleeding. Push pedal and hold like doing the brakes then open the bleeder vs open the bleeder then push slowly and close before bottom. Set timing for pushing the pedal... how is this so F'ing complicated?
So my question is, despite probably putting air into the system everywhere it could possibly be, if I just start over and follow the instructions from the FSM will I be good to go, or do I have to do something different now?
So tempted to just get it flat bedded to Nissan, I don't know how anyone could think this is easier than the brakes  Turning out to be the hardest thing I've done on the car to date... |
I felt much the same way when I first changed my clutch fluid. Eventually, I just got my wife to sit in the driver seat and pump for me while I worked the bleeder valve (that's what she said
).
The method that worked best for me was to have my wife pump the clutch until it was firm, then on the last of usually 3-5 pumps, she would hold it at the floor while I loosened the bleeder valve and let whatever fluid would drain quickly do so before closing it back up. To close it off after the fluid is flushed, I have my wife pump the pedal twice for just a little pressure then I open the bleeder valve with her off the pedal. While the fluid is draining, I tell her to push the pedal slowly while I close the bleeder valve.
I bled nearly an entire 500 mL bottle of Motul RBF600 last time because we had trouble getting a firm pedal. Eventually we got it though
