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Brief installation notes:

Let the car sit for a few hours before installation so that both the engine and fuel can cool, and so that at least a few psi of the fuel pressure can seep out before opening the line.

Either hide the key, or disconnect the battery. If someone powers on the car during install, fuel is going to spray all over the place.

Tools needed:

10mm socket on a ratchet
5mm allen wrench
Roll of paper towls, or a bunch of rags.
thread sealant


A: Install either a 1/8 NPT plug, sensor, or pressure gauge to the front of the CJ fitting with thread sealant. You can use teflon tape or paste. If you use tape, just try not to let it hang over and get on the inside of the fuel plumbing.

B: Make sure you have everything: The CJ fuel tap (which is now plugged with either a NPT plug, or a sensor or gauge.), you should have 2 SS bolts about 1.5" long, and a pair of SS washers. Make sure the viton oring on the bottom of the CJ fuel tap is both installed, and looks healthy.

C: Locate the fuel line and damper input flange. It is located at the front end of the passenger side valvecover.

D: Surround yourself with several rags within reach, use one hand to hold the damper and line down, while removing the 10mm bolts. The fuel is under pressure, so do not take your hand off, keep holding the part down after removing the bolts.

E: Surround the entire area with rags, because there will be a brief blast of fuel when you lift up the damper and hose. You want to basically mummy wrap the area so that it all gets absorbed when you lift up. Make sure your eyes are protected from spray.

F: With the entire area protected from fuel blast, and with your eyes protected, slowly slowly lift up on the damper/hose. You have about 1/4" up to go before the fuel will start coming out. If you go slow enough, you can get the fuel pressure to just seep into your rags. I usually hold the rags tight around while I lift up to make sure they absorb it, and you can usually feel the rags get cold/wet as it soaks in. You will be able to tell when you are lifted completely off.

G: Once you are lifted off and away, you are safe to continue. Dry up any fuel that got away.

H: There is probably a small puddle of fuel down in the fuel rail inlet fitting. Dab a tiny bit of that fuel on the viton oring of the CJ fitting to lubricate it, and then slide the CJ fitting down into the fuel rail inlet flange.

I: Now install the fuel damper/line into the CJ fitting. Secure it using the 2 SS bolts and washers, and use the 5mm allen wrench to tighten.

J: You are done! Make sure everything is snug and dry.

K: go into the car, and turn the car on without starting the engine. To do this in a 6MT, act like you are going to start the car, but do not push the clutch in. It will just turn everything on without starting. I assume this is the same for a 7AT you just dont press the brake peddle down. Doing this will prime the fuel pump momentarily. It might not have been enough to build full pressure, but it should be good enough to go check for leaks and make sure the gauge is reading some pressure if you have one.

L: If you have any leaks, and you dont know why, do not start the engine. Post here, or contact me, or call a buddy mechanic... whatever you do, dont drive around with a fuel leak!


Anyone think of anything I am missing? I just typed this up out of memory.

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