Quote:
Originally Posted by jwick
No electrical issues. The dealer had to replace the brake and clutch cancel switches. The tech made me drive around while he had Consult plugged in to make sure everything was synced properly. He told me it was a real pita to make sure they were synced.
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jwick, you should be all good then. Like I said the switches simply make contact at either end of the pedal travel with neither having any effect for the vast majority of the pedal stroke so I'm not sure what he truly means when he said "synced" them other than making sure the ECU was registering their expected inputs with pedal full up and pedal full down. I know the ECU will freak out and throw a bunch of dash warning lights if you try to engage cruise control with the pedal partly down or a faulty cruise switch causing no signal to be sent confusing the computer. So he was likely confirming thru Consult the switches were indeed sending correct info to the computer. Had the saftey switch been bad the car simply would not start but wouldn't throw any codes or warnings since a bad safety switch wouldn't complete the circuit telling the ECU it's safe to start, just as if someone forgets to press the clutch fully in before hitting the start button on the dash.
Hope that helps
