As the title says I am in the process of installing a new oil cooler in preparation for track days this year.
DR & WSTAR both run the series 9 and their logic that it has a lower profile "hence less air blocked by the bumper" sounded like good advise. So I have been slowly collecting all the bits and pieces that I thought I would need.
o Setreb series 9 25 row
o Areoquip -10 AN SS line 10 ft
o Mocal Thermostatic sandwich plate
o 2 x 90 deg and 2 x 60 deg fittings
o -10 AN cooler adapters
I fabbed up the brackets from a piece of 2 1/4 aluminum angle from the local CAL-Ranch store.
Pic of test fit of the cooler.
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I wanted to have a very solid four point mount for the cooler so I made a small bracket that I pop riveted to the diver side bumper mount/ rail.
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And final mount with paint.
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Now to keep the stock oil cooler or not? I asked some questions and after looking at how restrictive the oil filter area would be with the mocal sandwich plate and stocker. I decided that I would get rid of that. Tony (Fast Intentions) also reconfirmed that decision.
There was a exploded view of the tubes you need to take off then either plug or connect to complete the coolant circuit.
Pic of the piping that gets removed. These are the 2 that run across the front of the block to and from the stock oil cooler.
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And the connection to the feed and return lines that direct coolant to the stock cooler. You need 1/2 id heater hose. $3 at your local auto parts store.
I routed this down next to the main 2" radiator hose. I went ahead and zip tied it as well for peace of mind. Didn't want it moving and getting into the pulleys or belt.
Top view
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Bottom view
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Couple of things to keep in mind:
1. You will need a pre 2012 oil filter stud. DJTodd told me that in a previous post and I ignored it MAY BAD
You can order them for $7, mine will be here next week.
Pic of the stock oil filter stud and the mocal adapter stud. The one needed for the install is going to be about and 1" shorter and threaded on both ends like the stock one in the pic.
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2. I have a Nismo with the front damper. I don't like the idea of taking something off if I'm not replacing it with something better. The fix is going to be a 2" aluminum spacer and some longer bolts. Super simple fix to get it back on and clear the new oil cooler.
3. I'm leaning toward routing my oil lines around the driver side then using the 2 bolt holes for the coolant tubes that were taken off for a sleeve that will hold the oil lines. I think this will put less stress on the oil line connectors and prevent and unwanted movement in the lines. I will have to leave a little slack to accommodate any engine movement etc..
Well that's about it for now I will update when she's all buttoned up later this week.