Nissan 370Z Forum - View Single Post

kjoons · 01-02-2014, 03:23 PM

I got the dreaded SES light and P2A03 code. This code can point to a number of things; front O2 sensor took a **** (highly unlikely), dirty MAF, loose clamps on the intakes, and obviously if you've done a HFC/test pipe, all of that haha. I got rid of it without the expensive $500-900 tune.

I drove maybe 300 miles before my light came on, tried the ECU reset, and 80 miles later it popped back on. This alone told me something came undone through the 300 miles, the HFCs either heated and formed into a more comfortable position, and/or one or more of the nut/bolts slowly worked a little loose.

First things first, check your engine bay for anything you may have knocked loose while getting that annoying bolt/nut off and on for the install.

Now, jack the car up and follow these steps:
1. Pull the negative terminal off the battery, or do the Killer Instinct combo breaker cheat code with your pedal and start/stop button, whichever you prefer. This is to reset the ECU.
2. Tighten all the bolts you dealt with, this is to seal all "leaks"; 5 per side on the HFC/test pipe
3. Tighten the anti-foulers and block off bolts
4. Pull out the O2 sensor and stuff steel wool inside the anti-fouler and reinstall O2 sensors
5. Re-install the battery terminal, put the car down off the jack stands, and start the car and let it idle for 10-15 minutes to let the ECU re-learn cold starts

People will ask me, "why 10-15 minutes?"... ECUs start up on "cold" parameters, once the engine oil temp and coolant temp has reached it's "hot" parameters, it will readjust AFR and a number of other things; spark, timing, etc.. Generally, it will take 5-8 minutes to hit "hot" parameters, but you need the additional 2-7 minutes for the ECU to feel out the "hot" parameters as well.

hopefully this is helpful, before anyone takes the $500-900 plunge only to have the SES light come back on. simple fact is, if you or the shop did the job right, the SES light should NOT come on. if it is coming on, that means you have an exhaust leak after the header and before the CBE.. Steel wool is cheap and easy, i stuffed some in mine just to take the extra measure, usually isn't needed unless you're running test pipes.

01-02-2014, 03:23 PM	#33 (permalink)
kjoons Base Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 48 Drives: 12' MagBlk 370Z 7AT Rep Power: 12	I got the dreaded SES light and P2A03 code. This code can point to a number of things; front O2 sensor took a **** (highly unlikely), dirty MAF, loose clamps on the intakes, and obviously if you've done a HFC/test pipe, all of that haha. I got rid of it without the expensive $500-900 tune. I drove maybe 300 miles before my light came on, tried the ECU reset, and 80 miles later it popped back on. This alone told me something came undone through the 300 miles, the HFCs either heated and formed into a more comfortable position, and/or one or more of the nut/bolts slowly worked a little loose. First things first, check your engine bay for anything you may have knocked loose while getting that annoying bolt/nut off and on for the install. Now, jack the car up and follow these steps: 1. Pull the negative terminal off the battery, or do the Killer Instinct combo breaker cheat code with your pedal and start/stop button, whichever you prefer. This is to reset the ECU. 2. Tighten all the bolts you dealt with, this is to seal all "leaks"; 5 per side on the HFC/test pipe 3. Tighten the anti-foulers and block off bolts 4. Pull out the O2 sensor and stuff steel wool inside the anti-fouler and reinstall O2 sensors 5. Re-install the battery terminal, put the car down off the jack stands, and start the car and let it idle for 10-15 minutes to let the ECU re-learn cold starts People will ask me, "why 10-15 minutes?"... ECUs start up on "cold" parameters, once the engine oil temp and coolant temp has reached it's "hot" parameters, it will readjust AFR and a number of other things; spark, timing, etc.. Generally, it will take 5-8 minutes to hit "hot" parameters, but you need the additional 2-7 minutes for the ECU to feel out the "hot" parameters as well. hopefully this is helpful, before anyone takes the $500-900 plunge only to have the SES light come back on. simple fact is, if you or the shop did the job right, the SES light should NOT come on. if it is coming on, that means you have an exhaust leak after the header and before the CBE.. Steel wool is cheap and easy, i stuffed some in mine just to take the extra measure, usually isn't needed unless you're running test pipes. __________________ Living to Drive.