View Single Post
Old 12-30-2013, 08:47 PM   #1715 (permalink)
Rangerz
Enthusiast Member
 
Rangerz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Northern Utah
Age: 59
Posts: 476
Drives: 2012 370 Nismo
Rep Power: 12
Rangerz has a spectacular aura aboutRangerz has a spectacular aura about
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by djtodd View Post
The stock cooler is basically a REALLY crappy oil/water heat exchanger. The part we're talking about eliminating is the small sandwich plate that fits between the block and the oil filter. It's part #1 in this pic.



It's probably about 1" - 1.5" thick.
If you add an external cooler on top of that, there is VERY little clearance when changing the filter. You also can only use the "short" filters, and not some of the taller ones like the bigger Purolator (can remember part#).

I also read that other post. I get that in theory it should help, but having tested an external cooler with and without the stock cooler, it made zero difference in warm up times, etc. That's why many of us use a block-off plate that fits over the external cooler core for the winter. I made mine out of aluminum sheet and industrial velcro. Cost me maybe $10 in material. Others have used something as simple as cardboard.
Djtodd & Phunk

thanks for the information. So if I'm reading the diagram right you can go all out as Phunk said or could you just just connect tube #9 inlet and outlet ends to themselves and be fine? Dj what route did you go with?

thanks guys. If you reply maybe just PM, don't really want to highjack a TT FI thread for oil cooling
__________________
Stillen Gen III/ NST/ Fast Intentions Non-Res HFC & 12" Resonated CF TDX/ Setreb series 9 OC/ SPL upper control arms/ Whiteline front & rear swaybars/ Uprev tuned by Seb@specialtyZ/ 319HP 262TQ/ Z1 PS Cooler/ Z1 SS Premium break lines/ CJM Road Race pump/Carbotech F:XP10 R:XP8 Nismo OC DIY
Rangerz is offline   Reply With Quote