Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck33079
Buy a set of pistons, rods and bearings yourself and find a good local machine shop. Have everything balanced with the clutch and flywheel on. Throw it back in with some more fuel, turn up the boost and aim for 600whp. Personally, I wouldn't even touch the heads. There's too much VVEL black magic going on in there for me to feel comfortable having a shop take it apart, work on the heads and put everything back together correctly.
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This is basically what I did, but if you're tearing apart the engine and shooting for 600whp and
reliability lets actually be realistic about the parts list:
ARP main studs
ARP L19 head studs
K1 Rods
Wiseco pistons
OEM bearings,
Calico coated (theres no aftermarket available)
Cosworth headgaskets
engine gasket set
rear main seal (doesn't come with the gasket set for some reason)
timing chain/tensioners
water pump
oil pump
pickup tube
Recommended (especially if you want to beat on the car in the summer):
Re-routing the turbo coolant lines (GTM chains the coolant lines together so the driver turbo is cooled with the water exiting the passenger turbo)
Upgraded radiator (mishimoto works great)
2012+ coolant expansion tank
2012+ coolant hard pipe (expansion tank returns to this pipe now, above the driver side manifold)
Ceramic coating for manifolds, turbine housings, downpipes
Bracing the driver side manifold (the GTM driver side manifold has a tendency to crack along the runner due to stress from supporting the turbo)
I would also highly recommend a set of Z1 motor and transmission mounts and a whiteline poly diff bushing to actually put all of this power to the road.