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ValidusVentus · 11-22-2013, 12:44 AM

They get bedded in just fine on the first few warmup laps of the weekend. I think these 1st few laps are the perfect environment to do so. Once that is done a good layer of pad material will stay on the rotors the rest of the weekend until the weekend is over and the layer gets scrubbed off. I make sure to warm up my brakes gradually (avoiding threshold braking during this time) and also try my best to cool them a bit gradually as well. I use the new design slotted DBA 5000 series 2-piece rotors in the front and the 4000 series in the rear. I also have installed the stillen front brake ducting which seems to be effective and seems to have reduced heat stress cracking on the rotor surface; which is why I end up replacing my rotors once they get large enough to catch your thumbnail on. I have yet to groove or wear a set to death. Except perhaps the stock front rotors which I put a hurting on. Front end of the car actually scrapes the ground a bit under hard braking sometimes once the tires are warm; Ive put adhesive teflon furniture movers on the bottom of the leading edge to act as "sacrificial anodes", if you will, in response to that. Sorry if this has gotten a bit off topic, did my best to contribute meaningfully lol.

Why do you say I should turn my rotors every time, I am not getting uneven deposits, switching pad materials, nor warping them, I see no reason to turn them.

11-22-2013, 12:44 AM	#24 (permalink)
ValidusVentus Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Washington State Posts: 400 Drives: #18 Z34 Rep Power: 23	They get bedded in just fine on the first few warmup laps of the weekend. I think these 1st few laps are the perfect environment to do so. Once that is done a good layer of pad material will stay on the rotors the rest of the weekend until the weekend is over and the layer gets scrubbed off. I make sure to warm up my brakes gradually (avoiding threshold braking during this time) and also try my best to cool them a bit gradually as well. I use the new design slotted DBA 5000 series 2-piece rotors in the front and the 4000 series in the rear. I also have installed the stillen front brake ducting which seems to be effective and seems to have reduced heat stress cracking on the rotor surface; which is why I end up replacing my rotors once they get large enough to catch your thumbnail on. I have yet to groove or wear a set to death. Except perhaps the stock front rotors which I put a hurting on. Front end of the car actually scrapes the ground a bit under hard braking sometimes once the tires are warm; Ive put adhesive teflon furniture movers on the bottom of the leading edge to act as "sacrificial anodes", if you will, in response to that. Sorry if this has gotten a bit off topic, did my best to contribute meaningfully lol. Why do you say I should turn my rotors every time, I am not getting uneven deposits, switching pad materials, nor warping them, I see no reason to turn them. __________________ Mods: Dedicated caged track car, lots of things. \|\|\| Valkyrie Autosport \|\|\| Last edited by ValidusVentus; 11-22-2013 at 02:35 AM.