View Single Post
Old 11-11-2013, 08:32 AM   #24 (permalink)
SouthArk370Z
Premium Member
 
SouthArk370Z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: South Arkansas
Posts: 8,435
Drives: 2014 Challenger
Rep Power: 324198
SouthArk370Z has a reputation beyond reputeSouthArk370Z has a reputation beyond reputeSouthArk370Z has a reputation beyond reputeSouthArk370Z has a reputation beyond reputeSouthArk370Z has a reputation beyond reputeSouthArk370Z has a reputation beyond reputeSouthArk370Z has a reputation beyond reputeSouthArk370Z has a reputation beyond reputeSouthArk370Z has a reputation beyond reputeSouthArk370Z has a reputation beyond reputeSouthArk370Z has a reputation beyond repute
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by synolimit View Post
I'm sure your right and it would make sense. Middle 2 (1 and 2) are for the switch on/off of hazards and s-mode and outside 2 (3 and 4) are for when the lights come on so you can see the button at night.
Ah. For some reason I was under the impression that your wiring was different than the '09 FSM I'm using. Apparently it's just the wire colors.

Quote:
Originally Posted by synolimit View Post
... I'm getting confused because we might be talking about 2 different things.
There does appear to be some miscommunication here. Not unusual on the Intertubes. I think the main problem is my mistaken belief that your wiring was different.

Quote:
Originally Posted by synolimit View Post
So if grounds a ground then just hook the orange and black together and run them to the ground prong on the new switch and Blk/yel and gre/wht together on the other switch?
You only need one of the grounds (assuming the other end of both wires is a good ground, which it should be). I'd go ahead and connect both ground wires. If you only connect one, use the largest wire (but I'm guessing they are the same size).

Quote:
Originally Posted by synolimit View Post
But I feel that's wrong or why else would nissan make a 4 wire switch when 3 would do? I think I'll need to leave 1 ground wire taped up. the inside of the new switch has the LED able to be grounded using the negative side of the LED to the ground prong already in place?
It is "good engineering" to isolate computer circuits from "external" circuits but that's a bit of overkill in a modern car where you have excellent grounding. Plus, this is a digital I/O line, not an analog sensor, and noise is not as critical when you are looking for on/off. Theoretically, separate circuits would be best; in practice, it doesn't make a lot of difference. I'm guessing that the reason Nissan did it their way is: If the ground for 3-terminal switch has high resistance (eg, corroded connection), then it would be possible for the power going to the light to feed into the switch circuit (and vice versa) - as long as you have a good ground, that shouldn't be a problem. Even with a poor ground, it shouldn't be unsafe, to you or the car, in your situation. It might not work right, but it shouldn't do any harm.

Quote:
Originally Posted by synolimit View Post
I guess using just one ground would mean unlike OEM where I'll have a button light off during the day and on at night with the headlight, the new switch and LED I'll have to decide if its a 24/7 on light or only on when I turn the headlights on...
As long as you have a good ground, the light should work properly. The "other" end of both wires are grounded and at the same potential, so, electrically, the terminal ends are the same.
__________________
Steering Lock Links - Search The370Z Bookmarklet - FSM @ NICOclub
Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma
SouthArk370Z is offline   Reply With Quote