Nissan 370Z Forum - View Single Post

BGTV8 · 09-17-2013, 05:18 PM

I always use old pads to bed new rotors, and old rotors to bed new pads (unless they are Project MU which do not need bedding, just a few hard stops to make the pad "conform" to rotor shape).

The DBA rotors need to get sufficiently hot to change the colour of the first 2 paints and that can be done by finding a quiet road, driving at 55-60mph and doing a maximum rate stop down to 30mph, speeding up to 60 again and repeating the process 10-15 times (cease after 10-15 stops or as soon as you can "smell" the brakes). Then drive for 20 minutes without using the brakes unless you have to, and then only use the brakes "gently" - to let the rotors cool - they need to be cool enought to touch at the finish by the time you stop the car.

This gives the rotor a heat cycle and conditions the friction surface for best longevity. A brand-new rotor taken straight to the track and flogged risks cracking due to thermal stress/shock.

Another method is to cold-fire the rotor (rotors chilled in liquid nitrogen and then permotted to come up to air temperature over 12-15 hours). I use the guys in the URL below but since they are in Melbourne, it is going to be a problem for you ... but at least you will get the idea of the service they offer.

Cryocycle - Home

Lots of people reckon this is a dark-art and BS, but my experience is that it works, both on my race car and in the Z34.

The other thing about more aggressive pads is that what you are doing is improving pad friction which will have some (modest) effect on stopping distances, but more importantly, these pads will dramtically improve the braking systems resistance to heat. The type of pads being discussed are substantially more heat-resistant and the brakign system will work consistently over a longer period without showing signs of stress (eg: brake fade and extended stopping distances with hotter rotors and pads).

09-17-2013, 05:18 PM	#9 (permalink)
BGTV8 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: 03350 Australia Posts: 1,515 Drives: 09 Nissan 370Z M6 Rep Power: 39974	I always use old pads to bed new rotors, and old rotors to bed new pads (unless they are Project MU which do not need bedding, just a few hard stops to make the pad "conform" to rotor shape). The DBA rotors need to get sufficiently hot to change the colour of the first 2 paints and that can be done by finding a quiet road, driving at 55-60mph and doing a maximum rate stop down to 30mph, speeding up to 60 again and repeating the process 10-15 times (cease after 10-15 stops or as soon as you can "smell" the brakes). Then drive for 20 minutes without using the brakes unless you have to, and then only use the brakes "gently" - to let the rotors cool - they need to be cool enought to touch at the finish by the time you stop the car. This gives the rotor a heat cycle and conditions the friction surface for best longevity. A brand-new rotor taken straight to the track and flogged risks cracking due to thermal stress/shock. Another method is to cold-fire the rotor (rotors chilled in liquid nitrogen and then permotted to come up to air temperature over 12-15 hours). I use the guys in the URL below but since they are in Melbourne, it is going to be a problem for you ... but at least you will get the idea of the service they offer. Cryocycle - Home Lots of people reckon this is a dark-art and BS, but my experience is that it works, both on my race car and in the Z34. The other thing about more aggressive pads is that what you are doing is improving pad friction which will have some (modest) effect on stopping distances, but more importantly, these pads will dramtically improve the braking systems resistance to heat. The type of pads being discussed are substantially more heat-resistant and the brakign system will work consistently over a longer period without showing signs of stress (eg: brake fade and extended stopping distances with hotter rotors and pads).