Originally Posted by Mr.Squeeze

Mishimoto hands down over the CSF raditor it's not even close. Over the past few days I been testing the Mishimoto radiator in some of the same codintions as the CSF and I will tell you its a night and day differnce .

All the testing I've done with both radiators has been with Uprev because the stock gauge is pretty much useless for this type of testing. The stock gauge has a normal operating temperature of about 160 degrees and doesn move one dot tell above 220 witch is hot .

Yesterday it was 80 degrees outside during the day when I decided to take the car out for some pulls. I started out at 181 degree coolant temperature and did 3 back to back pulls with about 20 seconds or so for between pulls due to space . The first pull was to 120 MPH coolant went up to 186 next pull was to 140 MPH 190 coolant temp. Now the last pull I had a good bit of room and did a pull to 160MPH . After all this my coolant temperature went up to 208 degrees and then came down quick to about 190. The recovery on this radiator is night and day compared to the CSF. Once I pulled over and for off the highway let the car sit for less than 5 minutes my coolant temperature went down to 177 .

Now in these same type of conditions the CSF unit would have been well over 220 and would take much longer to come down in temperature.

Originally Posted by Stino

I agree with you on this. To set the stage, I've never owned the CSF Radiator, therefore I can't make a comparison between the two. However, I too log my Z with Uprev, And I'm hard pressed to get Mishimoto coolant temps over 205 with many back-to-back 0-60 runs along with very spirited driving on remote roadways in my hometown. All this in 92 degree weather and still the water temp averages 201 and oil around 190-195. Mishimoto radiator performs very well. See my regression charts below, proof is in the pudding (as they say).

Having said that, anyone having temp issues with the Mishimoto or for that matter any radiator install, please read. MAKE SURE YOU PROPERLY FILL ANY NEW RADIATOR INSTALL BY RUNNING THE CAR WARM WITH THE HEAT BLOWING ON HIGH WHILE POURING ADDITIONAL COOLANT INTO THE ENGINE. DOING IT THIS WAY WILL REMOVE THE AIR BUBBLES WITHIN THE COOLANT. THEN AFTER 15 MINUTES TURN CAR OFF THEN BACK ON AFTER 10 MINUTES AND DO THE SAME UNTIL FANS COME ON. I HAVE READ MANY FORUM POSTS REGARDING TEMP RELATED ISSUES BECAUSE OF NOT PROPERLY FLUSHING THE COOLANT. Sorry for the bold caps, I just wanted to make sure forum members looking to replace their radiator see this important caveat.