Quote:
Originally Posted by Genie0311
I just thought of something. Could it be the idle air control valve?
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Man, I wish you could take some pictures so we could see if any of the vacuum lines are miss matched (easy to do).
Thinking out loud: So the car runs great but you have an engine light on. No vacuum leaks from TB or intake, vacuum lines are on correctly but idles like crap and its an AT.
I assume the shop has check the fuel rail, injector seats, coil pack connections. Any one of those will cause the ECU to compensate. Also ask them to test the connections on the TB wires they had to extend fronm the left side. See if there is any drop in volts. That might cause an issue with the drivers side VVEL.
Next vacuum lines are all correct so it could be the Air Control Valve (not sure how to test it). Also if its only running ruff at idle, there may be a problem with the shield that is bolted under the front bumper to block direct air flow to the intake tubes.
We found on a couple of cars that a breeze or burst of wind would cause the MAF's to read positive pressure. The computer goes nuts trying to compensate for it. What we did to fix it was to take a square piece of sheet metal and make a bigger shield that extended 4inches in front and behind the intake tube and made it long enough to wrap under the air filters. This fixed the issue.
If the Tuner try's to get a baseline with out turning on the fan for the first run you wont see this issue. As soon as the fan is turned on he wont be able to get a consistent baseline. If he trys to tune it your numbers will be way off for each pull he does until the issue is fixed, we used cardboard to complete the tune then made a bigger shield at home that day.
The MAF's are located to close the the air filters.. I hope this helps some, if not please let us know what your fix was. I'm interested. 29 Palms is great as long as you know your going home at the end. Stay safe brother..
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