Quote:
Originally Posted by Cmike2780
Right, the Flex and the Rupes will remove more clear coat than the PC per pass, but all that means is a shorter time polishing.
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Or, you can look at it as removing more clear coat than necessary. Whenever I touch up my paint, all it takes is ONE pass with the PC, a light polish and the white pad. One pass with that combination fixes whatever damage I may find. That same pass with the Flex or the Rupes is going to remove MORE clear coat than the PC will. With the work time being equal, using a more powerful machine not only offers no advantage, it removes more clear coat than necessary. If you are needing the power of something like the Flex to do light work on your paint AFTER you have completely corrected it, then there is something flawed in your paint maintenance process.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cmike2780
You make it sound like it's impossible to do light work with Flex. The way I see it, it's like driving a 1/4 mile in a Prius vs driving a 1/4 mile in a GT-R....same finish line, half the time.
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For heavy work, I agree. For light work, the PC is a smarter choice when considering the preservation of your clear coat.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cmike2780
I'm not even knocking the PC, and like I said it's a great tool for most of what I need. I just don't think owning both would be much of a compliment since there is a 95-100% overlap from an end result point of view.
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You kinda lost me there but but I think the rule of using the least aggressive method to repair you paint damage when it is not severe is basically the rule of thumb that I always preach. You can always buff more clear off the car but you can't buff it back on.