Hello all,
My name is Michael and I work for XPEL Technologies Corp. This is our first post as a sponsor so I thought I should introduce us. We have been in the clear bra business since 1996 and have done and seen it all when it comes to paint protection film. We are always here to help and answer questions, so please feel free to ask/PM at any time. If I may, I would like to weigh in on a few things discussed in this thread.
Today's technology has allowed paint protection films to become better than ever. Some films on the market have taken advantage of these new advances and some have not. This has produced films that are not only free of texture (orange peel), but some are also highly stain resistant and even self-healing. On the other hand, some have not changed in more than a decade while others were very low tech to begin with. I believe this is why performing a Google search on the internet about paint protection film reveals such diverse opinions on the subject. Some folks have experience with older tech, some with low tech and some with cutting edge products. Add to that the difference the installer makes in the end product depending on their skill level and experience, and you can imagine how this combination of factors could produce a vast difference in customers' experiences.
That said, I would advise the following things to have the best chance at a great experience:
1) Choose a film with a low surface energy. For those that are not familiar with this term, it's basically a measure of how slippery the surface is. This is important because the lower the surface energy of the film, the less contaminants will stick to it (similar to the way a Teflon frying pan works). Contamination is in fact what causes yellowing, rather than UV as many used to believe. Exhaust smoke, oils from the road, pollution, etc. get into the pores of the film and over time cause film to look yellow unless they either can be cleaned off the film or never stick to begin with, which brings us to the next point.
2) Choose a film that is resistant to chemicals. Most films are not, and are quickly degraded or destroyed when subjected to them. Why does this matter? The vast majority of waxes and polishes on the market use some sort of solvent as either a cleaning compound or as a carrier for the wax itself. Kerosene and Naphtha are the most common and will break down and/or yellow many paint protection films over time. Another harmful but common ingredient, Xylene, is often used as the primary ingredient in bug and tar remover. If the film you choose can't resist these chemicals over time, you will experience yellowing and loss of gloss unless you find a way to completely avoid them. Taking the chemical thing a step further, the harsher the chemicals your film of choice can resist, the more choices you have when you need to remove a stain from the surface (bugs, rubber residue and tar commonly stain most films).
3) If you do choose a film (maybe because of price) that does not have both of the 2 properties above, do NOT use Plexus on them. Plexus was designed for use on acrylic or polycarbonate windscreens and it's a fantastic product for that. But there are 12 major families of plastic, each having hundreds of different members. They don't all react the same way to chemicals. Plexus contains 25% Naphtha...not good for polyurethane. Over time (especially on light colored cars) it will deteriorate the film. Instead, use a purpose made Paint Protection Film Sealant (these are designed for polyurethane) or at the very least use a wax that contains neither of the chemicals mentioned above.
4) Self healing may sound like snake oil, but it does in fact play a huge role in preserving the appearance of the film over time. Most films are very easy to scratch, or more accurately, easy to swirl. Simply wiping something off a clear bra with a microfiber when it's warm can cause it. Self healing films return to their pristine un-swirled appearance right in front of your eyes.
5) Be sure to ask to see examples of the installer's work. Preferably the edges of the film should be wrapped where possible, and where they cannot (for example around parking sensors or where body panels are bolted together leaving nowhere to tuck the edges) there should be no inconsistency in the distance the film is from the edge of the panel. Any of these edges should be machine precision. There should also be no obvious distortions in the surface of the film. These are usually cause by improper handling of the film during installation. There should be very minimal if any dust specks in the installation. It is almost impossible to have none (just being realistic), but they should be practically unnoticeable under most lighting.
Hope this helps. If you have any questions please feel free to ask or PM us.
Also, here's an installation we did two weeks ago on a brand new black 370Z Nismo.
2013 Nismo & XPEL Ultimate Film