Quote:
Originally Posted by NitrousZ34
Sasha any update on when you will start making the next batch of these kits?
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I hope to have a few kits ready for you guys by May.
As I am sure you know, it is difficult working if you don't have: "a business with a brick and mortar facility with bona fide business hours, phone number, e-mail address and fax number"
On that note, I have noticed that some of vendors here are scared of the recent surge of competition (with better products) in the forced induction market. So I thought I should address some of the "shots" being taken around here.
1)Crash bar: In order to produce the power a BP kit is capable, it is important to have a good cooling system. A part of a good cooling system is a large core intercooler. With the 67mm turbo, capable of delivering 93lbs/min of air flow (rated at 935HP), a tiny (or two) intercooler just does not cut it. Of course, in order to fit a properly sized intercooler, the OEM crash bar has to be removed. A rather simple concept.
2) Manual gearbox: The kit is build to work with the manual gearbox only, but in the future will be made to also work with the autmatic transmission. Again, I am working with limited resources up here..
3)With the BP kit, you do not need to drop $3,000 for a turbo upgrade because the engine has to come out. To upgrade/service any of the components on the kit, you just need a floor jack and some stands. If that isn't value in the long run, I don't know what is. The initial install cost also makes up for any up front cost difference there may be between this, and other turbo kits.
If you wish to upgrade turbine housings (allowing you to tune for more boost/power) it will take about two hours to upgrade the turbine housing, and cost $250 in parts. Again, value.
A complete turbo upgrade will take even less time.
On top of that, it is still very much a complete kit, with an oil cooler, oil pan spacer, large injectors, large fuel pump..ect.
4)Exhaust compatibility. The BP kit is built to work with one of the best, and most common exhaust systems on the market...the F.I dual cat back. In the near future, Berk exhaust will be added to that list, and it is the second most common exhaust system for this platform. The kit also works with the OEM exhaust, and I am confident that it will flow enough to support 500whp.
5)The BP kit is built to work with all OEM components left intact. There is no need to remove any of the vital OEM components. This makes the kit straight forward to install, and non invasive. Because of this, the kit can be easily removed if needed, and one would never be able to tell anything was ever done to the car. No need to drill/tapp/cut anything.
This is a concept the competition is just now catching up on, even after 26 years of being in this business.
6)Emissions...I am not sure how many purchase a forced induction kit rated for a magical 1000hp, only to run catalytic converters, and limit that power to half.
7)Clutch...In order to remove the transmission on a car with a BP turbo kit, the installer had to remove the turbo, and then the maniflold. In order to remove the turbo, there is one T-bolt clamp, one V-band clamp and 4 bolts on the turbine. After that, it is the same as removing the catalytics/down pipe from a TT kit. This will add about 30min of labor, on a job that may need to be done once every 40k?
8)A BP kit comes with only the best, most proven components on the market. Tial BOV(s), Tial waste gates, Precision billet turbos...ect. These components are what makes a solid, reliable turbo kit where customers are looking for long term use, and the most value out of the system.
These are not chines turbos, BOV's and wastegates that will fail if pushed. APS (Air Powered Systems) has attempted this before (to reduce cost) on the 350z, and has earned a bad reputation, using cheaper turbos that were built in factories overseas. With other contributing factors, APS as a company no longer sells anything in North America.
9)Power under the curve= fun...something that is thrown around here often. This topic has a lot to do with the tuner. For example, a BP kit will make 10psi of boost at 3600rpm, as you have seen on the prototype dyno. However, max torque (400ft/tq in this case/safe tune) is not reached till about 4,200rpm. This is a direct function of the tune/tuner. Sure we could have made 400+ft/tq at 3600rpm by going very agressive on the tune, and having it come on very fast. But what is the point? Traction is an issue with these cars to begin with, the strain on the engine/drivetrain is amplified, and the risk to engine damage increases.
So, when comparing dyno numbers/area under the curve, it is best to look at the third party results (although for competitors kits these are next to impossible to find). This is what we did with the prototype, as it was tuned by Specialty Z, during a group tune...where safety and durability were the main driving factors. So take note of this next time you see a manufacturers dyno, and compare it to one a customer posts where a third party tuner was involved. A case where the tuner does not want to cause engine damage to a customers car.
There are other things mentioned, but IMO they are just not worth responding to. Useless facts are just that, useless.
Sooooo
