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Old 02-13-2013, 08:38 PM   #65 (permalink)
AlexRaymond19
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Maine
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Drives: 2010 Nissan 370z
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sh0velMan View Post
Could you post a couple photos of how it looks with the wheel/liner off as far as getting to the header nuts?

I always thought it was solid metal on the inside...
I can grab a pick tomorrow, but you are right, it is solid metal... You have to attack it from under where the metal stops, with the wheel off. It was the only way i could see to get the 2 bolts under the header in the back off. Those are actually the easiest to get off! I used like a 24" or 36'' extension with a 3/8's u joint at the end and a deep socket 14mm. It helps to have a helping hand reach in to the headers and grab the socket and place it on the bolt because it is too floppy with the u joint on. IF you don't have someone to help you, take some wax or really thick grease and put it on the u joint to make it more rigid so you can align it. (picked that trick up in the AF from a F-16 crew chief) Luckily I got the last one off right as my U joint broke, so you might want to have 2 available just in case. Really the only other thing that has stopped me in my tracks for a while was the O2 sensor on the header. You cant get to it with a wrench while the header is on, so you have to unplug it from the harness... Which sounds easy, but its located in such a spot where it is damn near impossible... Luckily i have a pair of super long needle nose pliers. It helps to snap the plugs off of their mount, that frees up a few more inches of wire to work with
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2010 370Z Touring MT | Stillen | Motordyne | Momentum| Z1 | Fast Intentions | Advant Garde | RE11 | Swift | SPC | Quaife | Whiteline | Evo R | 322RWHP 259ft-lb Mustang
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