Quote:
Originally Posted by DIGItonium
I have the oil cooler and twin turbo, and it still feels like the throttle doesn't want to open up fully or quickly enough after things heat up for awhile. It gets to the point my car boosts later than usual or I can't get the turbos spooling. It's a different feeling when things are still cool... the car is rev happy, and I can get boost in 3rd at low speeds.
So has anyone monitored or logged the actual throttle position? I have the UpRev cable, but not the software.
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old thread but i will chime in with my observations via scangauge. Throttle position (TP) sits at 1 at idle. Whether that's 1% or 1 degree (angle) i'm not sure. Back when i had the scangauge connected to my Mazda, i've only ever seen it as high as 90 so i'm led to believe this is a reading in degrees, 90 being a right angle & therefore WOT.
Cruising at 60kmh in 5th (6MT) the TP is around 15-20. I'm not an aggressive driver but i'm no grandpa when i feel the need or urge, but generally i'm pretty gentle to avoid giving the gf whiplash!
Since you're running a boosted setup i'm curious if the throttle plates are resticting boost? Would it be possible to hook up a MAP sensor based boost gauge before the throttle bodies & comparing that to your ECU MAP reading? i'm happy to gather some n/a MAP readings for you if you want.
I find it's a bit weird that the TP would be 1 degree at idle yet the engine idles quite smoothly. Sometimes i doubt the scangauge.. i guess the sure way to find out would be to remove the post MAF pipe and start it up for a few seconds.
I know a few common rail t/diesel guys around here that have either removed the throttle plates or drilled holes in them for various reasons including increasing throttle response by a fraction. But a t/diesel is a different beast & loves a shitload of air & there's no super sensitive AFRs to upset. more air can be easily matched with more fuel. The throttle plates on these engines are largely to help get a gentler shut down and to aid DPF regeneration.
Uprev fan control is exactly as its name suggests - reprogramming the ECU to turn the fans on earlier (ie at a lower coolant temp) & spinning them faster at each coolant temp step. basically a remap for the fan. IMO it's quite expensive if you're simply tuning for driveability only. You might aswell tune for performance too. Nissan really should've programmed the fans to come on earlier but i guess this is what we have to live with if we dont want to be restricted to driving Leafs or Priuses yet!