View Single Post
Old 01-21-2013, 01:39 PM   #27 (permalink)
SouthArk370Z
Premium Member
 
SouthArk370Z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: South Arkansas
Posts: 8,435
Drives: 2014 Challenger
Rep Power: 324198
SouthArk370Z has a reputation beyond reputeSouthArk370Z has a reputation beyond reputeSouthArk370Z has a reputation beyond reputeSouthArk370Z has a reputation beyond reputeSouthArk370Z has a reputation beyond reputeSouthArk370Z has a reputation beyond reputeSouthArk370Z has a reputation beyond reputeSouthArk370Z has a reputation beyond reputeSouthArk370Z has a reputation beyond reputeSouthArk370Z has a reputation beyond reputeSouthArk370Z has a reputation beyond repute
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by roy'sz View Post
you could drill a hole in the top of the intake and use a expoxy to seal up the whole if you use a thermocouple.
I'd like to find a less permanent/destructive way to do it. There are several vacuum lines that I may be able to tee into (t/c through the run and current hose on the branch).
I still haven't found a good (ie, cheap) solution for taking 4-5 temperature readings at the same time. I have found a dual-channel t/c meter that I will be ordering this week or next, but at $9 I'm afraid that it will not be very be accurate. If it does turn out to be reasonably accurate, I'll order more.

Quote:
Originally Posted by roy'sz View Post
Which brings the question of where is the intake air temp being read at? I thought it was the maf but I may be wrong.
The ECU uses the MAF temperature on bank 1 for IAT.

Quote:
Originally Posted by roy'sz View Post
I don't disagree when it comes to pulling air outside, but here is my stumbling block. We as a customer are spending 150bucks on 3 degrees of air for 3 or 4 hp (gen3, aem, injen, etc) compared to a k&n or takeda? Most of the times cruising down the hwy the difference would be an avg of 5 or 6* right? if you are stuck in traffic then they both seem to have the same heat soak.
I'm trying to see what can be done to the stock setup. I'm not worried so much about an increase in HP, but rather keeping IAT below where the ECU starts pulling timing (which I suppose is, in effect, a boost in HP).
If the insulation works well enough, I won't need to spend money on a CAI.

Quote:
Originally Posted by roy'sz View Post
Also some useful information, the other night I took the wife out on date night in the z. When we left the resturante from dinner my intake air temp was around 130 from being parked for dinner. After some city driving (ambient temp was 44) it dropped down to about 95. When I got on the hwy it plummeted in a matter of 20-45 seconds to 46.
I've noticed much the same. Takes forever to get temps back to normal at city speeds after a long stop.
Did coolant temp go way up, also? Was the big drop at the same time that coolant temp dropped? The TB coolant loop may be having a larger effect on IAT than I suspect.
__________________
Steering Lock Links - Search The370Z Bookmarklet - FSM @ NICOclub
Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma
SouthArk370Z is offline   Reply With Quote