Question: I assumed I didn't have SLU issues the first two times my Z failed to start because re-charging/replacing the car battery started the car. Now, on its third failure to start, I can't get it into ACC, which assumedly means SLU problems. Is there a reason why disconnecting and replacing the car battery could have worked before, but not now?
BTW, nice compilation of symptoms below SouthArk, thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z
SLU failure will allow the car to go to neither ACC nor ON.
Sounds a lot like SLU failure.
As far as I know, that will have no effect on the SLU problem.
If the SLU locking pin does not retract completely, the wheel will be unlocked, but the microswitches are out of synch.
Is the Intelligent Key warning (to the left of the VID (outside temp, MPG, &c)) on? Won't go to ACC or ON? No whirr from the SLU when you press the start button? If all those are happening, you have SLU failure.
You have to pull the fuse after you get the SLU to let the car go to ON or ACC. If the SLU is not making the microswitches properly, it does no good to pull the fuse. See my thread at Links to posts about Steering Wheel Lock for links to more info. |